Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast
Summary: The paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the national coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) commissioned in 2005 and 2011 by coastal authorities for monitoring purposes. The profiles, spaced every 500 m, cover beach topography from dune/cliff...
| Main Authors: | , |
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Elsevier
2018-10-01
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| Series: | Oceanologia |
| Online Access: | http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0078323418300599 |
| _version_ | 1818274598418907136 |
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| author | Grzegorz Różyński Piotr Szmytkiewicz |
| author_facet | Grzegorz Różyński Piotr Szmytkiewicz |
| author_sort | Grzegorz Różyński |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | Summary: The paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the national coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) commissioned in 2005 and 2011 by coastal authorities for monitoring purposes. The profiles, spaced every 500 m, cover beach topography from dune/cliff tops through the emerged beach to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract their monotonic components containing all major modes of the variability of beach topography. They are termed empirical equilibrium profiles and can be used for straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic patterns of wave energy dissipation were thus identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and several zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. Interestingly, most profiles showed significant seabed variations beyond the nearshore depth of closure – this phenomenon requires comprehensive studies in future. Keywords: Coastal morphology, Wave energy dissipation, Equilibrium profiles, Data-driven modelling, Signal processing |
| first_indexed | 2024-12-12T22:16:24Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-05766949a8f14fc99a50fec41dbffecc |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 0078-3234 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-12-12T22:16:24Z |
| publishDate | 2018-10-01 |
| publisher | Elsevier |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Oceanologia |
| spelling | doaj.art-05766949a8f14fc99a50fec41dbffecc2022-12-22T00:10:02ZengElsevierOceanologia0078-32342018-10-01604500512Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coastGrzegorz Różyński0Piotr Szmytkiewicz1Corresponding author at: Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Kościerska 7, 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland. Tel.: +48 58 5222907; fax: +48 58 5524211.; Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Gdańsk, PolandInstitute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Gdańsk, PolandSummary: The paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the national coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) commissioned in 2005 and 2011 by coastal authorities for monitoring purposes. The profiles, spaced every 500 m, cover beach topography from dune/cliff tops through the emerged beach to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract their monotonic components containing all major modes of the variability of beach topography. They are termed empirical equilibrium profiles and can be used for straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic patterns of wave energy dissipation were thus identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and several zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. Interestingly, most profiles showed significant seabed variations beyond the nearshore depth of closure – this phenomenon requires comprehensive studies in future. Keywords: Coastal morphology, Wave energy dissipation, Equilibrium profiles, Data-driven modelling, Signal processinghttp://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0078323418300599 |
| spellingShingle | Grzegorz Różyński Piotr Szmytkiewicz Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast Oceanologia |
| title | Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast |
| title_full | Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast |
| title_fullStr | Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast |
| title_full_unstemmed | Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast |
| title_short | Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast |
| title_sort | some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the polish coast |
| url | http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0078323418300599 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT grzegorzrozynski somecharacteristicwaveenergydissipationpatternsalongthepolishcoast AT piotrszmytkiewicz somecharacteristicwaveenergydissipationpatternsalongthepolishcoast |