Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest Coast

Using buttons and beads sewn on wool and calico, Northwest Coast First Nations women fashion the robes and aprons essential to ongoing expressions of inherited prerogatives and rights. Each piece of regalia is carefully crafted to include signifying materials and motifs, telling of the origins or re...

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Main Author: Kathryn Bunn-Marcuse
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2023-10-01
Series:Arts
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2076-0752/12/5/216
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author Kathryn Bunn-Marcuse
author_facet Kathryn Bunn-Marcuse
author_sort Kathryn Bunn-Marcuse
collection DOAJ
description Using buttons and beads sewn on wool and calico, Northwest Coast First Nations women fashion the robes and aprons essential to ongoing expressions of inherited prerogatives and rights. Each piece of regalia is carefully crafted to include signifying materials and motifs, telling of the origins or relations of their owners. These creations exist as part of a holistic system that integrates material artworks within ceremony, including song, dance, and oratory, which in turn uphold the laws expressed through potlatching. Shifting scholarly focus from Northwest Coast carving traditions, this paper recenters textile arts within a holistic, culturally focused context while addressing issues of gender, the effects of colonial practices, and the damage wrought by salvage anthropology as it fragmented cultural information across archives. Women’s artistic productions embody long-held technical and aesthetic knowledge connected to oral histories and cultural practices. Restoring Indigenous perspectives connecting tangible and intangible cultural heritage counterbalances the aesthetic emphasis that has dominated Northwest Coast art history.
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spelling doaj.art-084a725678544c4f8bf076ebfef937812023-11-19T15:35:08ZengMDPI AGArts2076-07522023-10-0112521610.3390/arts12050216Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest CoastKathryn Bunn-Marcuse0Division of Art History, School of Art, Art History, and Design, University of Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USAUsing buttons and beads sewn on wool and calico, Northwest Coast First Nations women fashion the robes and aprons essential to ongoing expressions of inherited prerogatives and rights. Each piece of regalia is carefully crafted to include signifying materials and motifs, telling of the origins or relations of their owners. These creations exist as part of a holistic system that integrates material artworks within ceremony, including song, dance, and oratory, which in turn uphold the laws expressed through potlatching. Shifting scholarly focus from Northwest Coast carving traditions, this paper recenters textile arts within a holistic, culturally focused context while addressing issues of gender, the effects of colonial practices, and the damage wrought by salvage anthropology as it fragmented cultural information across archives. Women’s artistic productions embody long-held technical and aesthetic knowledge connected to oral histories and cultural practices. Restoring Indigenous perspectives connecting tangible and intangible cultural heritage counterbalances the aesthetic emphasis that has dominated Northwest Coast art history.https://www.mdpi.com/2076-0752/12/5/216Indigenous art historyregaliaclothingNorthwest Coastwomen’s artKwakw<u>a</u>k<u>a</u>’wakw
spellingShingle Kathryn Bunn-Marcuse
Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest Coast
Arts
Indigenous art history
regalia
clothing
Northwest Coast
women’s art
Kwakw<u>a</u>k<u>a</u>’wakw
title Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest Coast
title_full Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest Coast
title_fullStr Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest Coast
title_full_unstemmed Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest Coast
title_short Manifesting Rights on Cloth: Regalia and Relations on the Northwest Coast
title_sort manifesting rights on cloth regalia and relations on the northwest coast
topic Indigenous art history
regalia
clothing
Northwest Coast
women’s art
Kwakw<u>a</u>k<u>a</u>’wakw
url https://www.mdpi.com/2076-0752/12/5/216
work_keys_str_mv AT kathrynbunnmarcuse manifestingrightsonclothregaliaandrelationsonthenorthwestcoast