Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development
The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from <i>Juglans regia<...
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
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MDPI AG
2022-03-01
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| Series: | Antioxidants |
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| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/11/4/677 |
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| author | Nermine Besrour Taofiq Oludemi Filipa Mandim Carla Pereira Maria Inês Dias Marina Soković Dejan Stojković Olga Ferreira Isabel C. F. R. Ferreira Lillian Barros |
| author_facet | Nermine Besrour Taofiq Oludemi Filipa Mandim Carla Pereira Maria Inês Dias Marina Soković Dejan Stojković Olga Ferreira Isabel C. F. R. Ferreira Lillian Barros |
| author_sort | Nermine Besrour |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from <i>Juglans regia</i> by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing <i>J. regia</i> leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-<i>O</i>-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 ± 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-<i>O</i>-pentoside (9.64 ± 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-<i>O</i>-glucoside (6.70 ± 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 µg/mL. Within <i>Proteus vulgaris</i>-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 µg/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photo-irritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored. |
| first_indexed | 2024-03-09T11:13:36Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-0c3a226b4a4d4201841c64d128bfb589 |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 2076-3921 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-03-09T11:13:36Z |
| publishDate | 2022-03-01 |
| publisher | MDPI AG |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Antioxidants |
| spelling | doaj.art-0c3a226b4a4d4201841c64d128bfb5892023-12-01T00:34:53ZengMDPI AGAntioxidants2076-39212022-03-0111467710.3390/antiox11040677Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation DevelopmentNermine Besrour0Taofiq Oludemi1Filipa Mandim2Carla Pereira3Maria Inês Dias4Marina Soković5Dejan Stojković6Olga Ferreira7Isabel C. F. R. Ferreira8Lillian Barros9Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalCentro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalCentro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalCentro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalCentro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalDepartment of Plant Physiology, Institute for Biological Research Siniša Stanković—National Institute of Republic of Serbia, University of Belgrade, Bulevar Despota Stefana 142, 11000 Belgrade, SerbiaDepartment of Plant Physiology, Institute for Biological Research Siniša Stanković—National Institute of Republic of Serbia, University of Belgrade, Bulevar Despota Stefana 142, 11000 Belgrade, SerbiaCentro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalCentro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalCentro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, PortugalThe cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from <i>Juglans regia</i> by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing <i>J. regia</i> leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-<i>O</i>-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 ± 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-<i>O</i>-pentoside (9.64 ± 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-<i>O</i>-glucoside (6.70 ± 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 µg/mL. Within <i>Proteus vulgaris</i>-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 µg/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photo-irritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/11/4/677<i>Juglans regia</i>phenolic compoundscosmeceuticalsbioactivity |
| spellingShingle | Nermine Besrour Taofiq Oludemi Filipa Mandim Carla Pereira Maria Inês Dias Marina Soković Dejan Stojković Olga Ferreira Isabel C. F. R. Ferreira Lillian Barros Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development Antioxidants <i>Juglans regia</i> phenolic compounds cosmeceuticals bioactivity |
| title | Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development |
| title_full | Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development |
| title_fullStr | Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development |
| title_full_unstemmed | Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development |
| title_short | Valorization of <i>Juglans regia</i> Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development |
| title_sort | valorization of i juglans regia i leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients bioactivity evaluation and final formulation development |
| topic | <i>Juglans regia</i> phenolic compounds cosmeceuticals bioactivity |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/11/4/677 |
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