Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations
This project aimed to apply eco-friendly extraction methods to <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. by-product (flowers without stigmas i.e., tepals composed of petals and sepals) to recover extracts with high antioxidant capacity and polyphenol content, to be used in cosmetic products. Flowers grow...
| Main Authors: | , , , , , , , , , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
MDPI AG
2021-06-01
|
| Series: | Cosmetics |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/51 |
| _version_ | 1797530098398658560 |
|---|---|
| author | Maria Rosa Gigliobianco Manuela Cortese Dolores Vargas Peregrina Carla Villa Giulio Lupidi Letizia Pruccoli Cristina Angeloni Andrea Tarozzi Roberta Censi Piera Di Martino |
| author_facet | Maria Rosa Gigliobianco Manuela Cortese Dolores Vargas Peregrina Carla Villa Giulio Lupidi Letizia Pruccoli Cristina Angeloni Andrea Tarozzi Roberta Censi Piera Di Martino |
| author_sort | Maria Rosa Gigliobianco |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | This project aimed to apply eco-friendly extraction methods to <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. by-product (flowers without stigmas i.e., tepals composed of petals and sepals) to recover extracts with high antioxidant capacity and polyphenol content, to be used in cosmetic products. Flowers grown in two different Italian regions (Sample 1—Alba in Piemonte, north of Italy and Sample 2—Sibillini in Marche, centre of Italy) were subjected for the first time to different eco-friendly microwave-mediated green solvents extractions (MGSE) andquali-quantitative determination in antioxidant molecules. Firstly, the extracts from Sample 1 were selected according to their total phenol content (TPC) by Folin–Ciocalteu’s assay and antioxidant capacity (AC) by spectrophotometric assays. Then, according to preliminary results, MGSE carried out in ethanol 70°, water, and glycerin were selected as the most performing methods and applied to both Samples 1 and 2. The best results were obtained using green solvents, such as water or ethanol 70°, for the samples coming from Marche. The identification and quantification of phenolic compounds, belonging to anthocyanins and flavonols classes, was performed by using UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS. Concerning flavonols content, the most abundant analyte is kaempferol 3-<i>O</i>-sophoroside and the extract in water from Sample 1 showed the higher amount of flavonols, reaching the concentration of 25.35 mg of kaempferol 3-O-glucoside equivalent per gram of tepals DW of raw material. Among anthocyanins, the most abundant was delphinidin 3,5-O-diglucoside and the high concentration of anthocyanin was detected in water and ethanol extract. Two new compounds, myricetin-di-glucoside and primflasine, were identified for the first time in <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. by-product by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS). The green batches obtained by extraction were thus characterized and evaluated for their biological potential and safety in keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The extracts were not cytotoxic up to 0.03 mg/mL. The water and ethanol 70° extracts were the most effective in counteracting oxidative stress induced by H2O2 and UVA exposure and reduced cytotoxicity induced by UVB exposure. The water extract was also able to significantly reduce cytotoxicity induced by sodium dodecyl sulphate-induced damage. Taken together, these results suggest a potential use of these waste materials as cosmeceutical preparations such as antiaging, and as anti-skin irritation formulation by-products. |
| first_indexed | 2024-03-10T10:24:06Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-1d0e638c03e44f8eb9f7d369ac8659f1 |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 2079-9284 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-03-10T10:24:06Z |
| publishDate | 2021-06-01 |
| publisher | MDPI AG |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Cosmetics |
| spelling | doaj.art-1d0e638c03e44f8eb9f7d369ac8659f12023-11-22T00:06:32ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842021-06-01825110.3390/cosmetics8020051Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic FormulationsMaria Rosa Gigliobianco0Manuela Cortese1Dolores Vargas Peregrina2Carla Villa3Giulio Lupidi4Letizia Pruccoli5Cristina Angeloni6Andrea Tarozzi7Roberta Censi8Piera Di Martino9School of Pharmacy, Università di Camerino, 62032 Camerino, ItalySchool of Pharmacy, Università di Camerino, 62032 Camerino, ItalySchool of Pharmacy, Università di Camerino, 62032 Camerino, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy, Università di Genova, 16126 Genova, ItalySchool of Pharmacy, Università di Camerino, 62032 Camerino, ItalyDepartment for Life Quality Studies, University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalySchool of Pharmacy, Università di Camerino, 62032 Camerino, ItalyDepartment for Life Quality Studies, University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalySchool of Pharmacy, Università di Camerino, 62032 Camerino, ItalySchool of Pharmacy, Università di Camerino, 62032 Camerino, ItalyThis project aimed to apply eco-friendly extraction methods to <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. by-product (flowers without stigmas i.e., tepals composed of petals and sepals) to recover extracts with high antioxidant capacity and polyphenol content, to be used in cosmetic products. Flowers grown in two different Italian regions (Sample 1—Alba in Piemonte, north of Italy and Sample 2—Sibillini in Marche, centre of Italy) were subjected for the first time to different eco-friendly microwave-mediated green solvents extractions (MGSE) andquali-quantitative determination in antioxidant molecules. Firstly, the extracts from Sample 1 were selected according to their total phenol content (TPC) by Folin–Ciocalteu’s assay and antioxidant capacity (AC) by spectrophotometric assays. Then, according to preliminary results, MGSE carried out in ethanol 70°, water, and glycerin were selected as the most performing methods and applied to both Samples 1 and 2. The best results were obtained using green solvents, such as water or ethanol 70°, for the samples coming from Marche. The identification and quantification of phenolic compounds, belonging to anthocyanins and flavonols classes, was performed by using UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS. Concerning flavonols content, the most abundant analyte is kaempferol 3-<i>O</i>-sophoroside and the extract in water from Sample 1 showed the higher amount of flavonols, reaching the concentration of 25.35 mg of kaempferol 3-O-glucoside equivalent per gram of tepals DW of raw material. Among anthocyanins, the most abundant was delphinidin 3,5-O-diglucoside and the high concentration of anthocyanin was detected in water and ethanol extract. Two new compounds, myricetin-di-glucoside and primflasine, were identified for the first time in <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. by-product by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS). The green batches obtained by extraction were thus characterized and evaluated for their biological potential and safety in keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The extracts were not cytotoxic up to 0.03 mg/mL. The water and ethanol 70° extracts were the most effective in counteracting oxidative stress induced by H2O2 and UVA exposure and reduced cytotoxicity induced by UVB exposure. The water extract was also able to significantly reduce cytotoxicity induced by sodium dodecyl sulphate-induced damage. Taken together, these results suggest a potential use of these waste materials as cosmeceutical preparations such as antiaging, and as anti-skin irritation formulation by-products.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/51<i>Crocus sativus</i> L. wasteseco-friendly extractions methodUPLC-DAD-ESI-MS methodHRMS analysiscytotoxicityoxidative stress |
| spellingShingle | Maria Rosa Gigliobianco Manuela Cortese Dolores Vargas Peregrina Carla Villa Giulio Lupidi Letizia Pruccoli Cristina Angeloni Andrea Tarozzi Roberta Censi Piera Di Martino Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations Cosmetics <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. wastes eco-friendly extractions method UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS method HRMS analysis cytotoxicity oxidative stress |
| title | Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations |
| title_full | Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations |
| title_fullStr | Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations |
| title_full_unstemmed | Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations |
| title_short | Development of New Extracts of <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. By-Product from Two Different Italian Regions as New Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations |
| title_sort | development of new extracts of i crocus sativus i l by product from two different italian regions as new potential active ingredient in cosmetic formulations |
| topic | <i>Crocus sativus</i> L. wastes eco-friendly extractions method UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS method HRMS analysis cytotoxicity oxidative stress |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/51 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT mariarosagigliobianco developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT manuelacortese developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT doloresvargasperegrina developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT carlavilla developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT giuliolupidi developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT letiziapruccoli developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT cristinaangeloni developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT andreatarozzi developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT robertacensi developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations AT pieradimartino developmentofnewextractsoficrocussativusilbyproductfromtwodifferentitalianregionsasnewpotentialactiveingredientincosmeticformulations |