Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants

Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, choles...

Full description

Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Luisa Coderch, Cristina Alonso, M. Teresa García, Lourdes Pérez, Meritxell Martí
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2023-07-01
Series:Cosmetics
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/4/107
_version_ 1797585094797426688
author Luisa Coderch
Cristina Alonso
M. Teresa García
Lourdes Pérez
Meritxell Martí
author_facet Luisa Coderch
Cristina Alonso
M. Teresa García
Lourdes Pérez
Meritxell Martí
author_sort Luisa Coderch
collection DOAJ
description Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage.
first_indexed 2024-03-11T00:00:56Z
format Article
id doaj.art-1eef350a2a1f4ca3ba4d2838eb88cefd
institution Directory Open Access Journal
issn 2079-9284
language English
last_indexed 2024-03-11T00:00:56Z
publishDate 2023-07-01
publisher MDPI AG
record_format Article
series Cosmetics
spelling doaj.art-1eef350a2a1f4ca3ba4d2838eb88cefd2023-11-19T00:43:43ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842023-07-0110410710.3390/cosmetics10040107Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of SurfactantsLuisa Coderch0Cristina Alonso1M. Teresa García2Lourdes Pérez3Meritxell Martí4Institute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), Jordi Girona, 18-26, 08034 Barcelona, SpainInstitute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), Jordi Girona, 18-26, 08034 Barcelona, SpainInstitute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), Jordi Girona, 18-26, 08034 Barcelona, SpainInstitute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), Jordi Girona, 18-26, 08034 Barcelona, SpainInstitute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), Jordi Girona, 18-26, 08034 Barcelona, SpainHuman hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/4/107hairlipidssurfactants
spellingShingle Luisa Coderch
Cristina Alonso
M. Teresa García
Lourdes Pérez
Meritxell Martí
Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants
Cosmetics
hair
lipids
surfactants
title Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants
title_full Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants
title_fullStr Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants
title_full_unstemmed Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants
title_short Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants
title_sort hair lipid structure effect of surfactants
topic hair
lipids
surfactants
url https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/4/107
work_keys_str_mv AT luisacoderch hairlipidstructureeffectofsurfactants
AT cristinaalonso hairlipidstructureeffectofsurfactants
AT mteresagarcia hairlipidstructureeffectofsurfactants
AT lourdesperez hairlipidstructureeffectofsurfactants
AT meritxellmarti hairlipidstructureeffectofsurfactants