Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review
This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed<sup>®</sup>, ScienceDirect, and MEDLI...
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MDPI AG
2022-08-01
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Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/85 |
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author | Lord Sam Liston Precious Lorraine Rivas Pajaree Sakdiset Gerard Lee See Florencio Arce |
author_facet | Lord Sam Liston Precious Lorraine Rivas Pajaree Sakdiset Gerard Lee See Florencio Arce |
author_sort | Lord Sam Liston |
collection | DOAJ |
description | This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed<sup>®</sup>, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log <i>P</i> (cLog <i>P</i>) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD<sub>50</sub> values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog <i>P</i> values for porcine (<i>r</i> = 0.114) and rabbit (<i>r</i> = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (<i>r</i> = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (<i>r</i> = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (<i>n</i> = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio. |
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format | Article |
id | doaj.art-2c70b28cfcef488f9b39b51dee496498 |
institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
issn | 2079-9284 |
language | English |
last_indexed | 2024-03-09T04:34:39Z |
publishDate | 2022-08-01 |
publisher | MDPI AG |
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series | Cosmetics |
spelling | doaj.art-2c70b28cfcef488f9b39b51dee4964982023-12-03T13:29:35ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842022-08-01948510.3390/cosmetics9040085Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic ReviewLord Sam Liston0Precious Lorraine Rivas1Pajaree Sakdiset2Gerard Lee See3Florencio Arce4Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesDepartment of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesCenter for Drug and Cosmetics Excellence, School of Pharmacy, Walailak University, Thasala, Nakhon Si Thammarat 80161, ThailandPharmaceutical Research and Drug Development Laboratories, Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesPharmaceutical Research and Drug Development Laboratories, Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesThis paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed<sup>®</sup>, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log <i>P</i> (cLog <i>P</i>) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD<sub>50</sub> values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog <i>P</i> values for porcine (<i>r</i> = 0.114) and rabbit (<i>r</i> = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (<i>r</i> = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (<i>r</i> = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (<i>n</i> = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/85chemical permeation enhancerskin permeationascorbic acidvitamin Ccosmeticssystematic review |
spellingShingle | Lord Sam Liston Precious Lorraine Rivas Pajaree Sakdiset Gerard Lee See Florencio Arce Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review Cosmetics chemical permeation enhancer skin permeation ascorbic acid vitamin C cosmetics systematic review |
title | Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review |
title_full | Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review |
title_fullStr | Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review |
title_full_unstemmed | Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review |
title_short | Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review |
title_sort | chemical permeation enhancers for topically applied vitamin c and its derivatives a systematic review |
topic | chemical permeation enhancer skin permeation ascorbic acid vitamin C cosmetics systematic review |
url | https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/85 |
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