Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review

This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed<sup>®</sup>, ScienceDirect, and MEDLI...

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Main Authors: Lord Sam Liston, Precious Lorraine Rivas, Pajaree Sakdiset, Gerard Lee See, Florencio Arce
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2022-08-01
Series:Cosmetics
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/85
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author Lord Sam Liston
Precious Lorraine Rivas
Pajaree Sakdiset
Gerard Lee See
Florencio Arce
author_facet Lord Sam Liston
Precious Lorraine Rivas
Pajaree Sakdiset
Gerard Lee See
Florencio Arce
author_sort Lord Sam Liston
collection DOAJ
description This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed<sup>®</sup>, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log <i>P</i> (cLog <i>P</i>) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD<sub>50</sub> values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog <i>P</i> values for porcine (<i>r</i> = 0.114) and rabbit (<i>r</i> = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (<i>r</i> = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (<i>r</i> = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (<i>n</i> = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio.
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spelling doaj.art-2c70b28cfcef488f9b39b51dee4964982023-12-03T13:29:35ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842022-08-01948510.3390/cosmetics9040085Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic ReviewLord Sam Liston0Precious Lorraine Rivas1Pajaree Sakdiset2Gerard Lee See3Florencio Arce4Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesDepartment of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesCenter for Drug and Cosmetics Excellence, School of Pharmacy, Walailak University, Thasala, Nakhon Si Thammarat 80161, ThailandPharmaceutical Research and Drug Development Laboratories, Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesPharmaceutical Research and Drug Development Laboratories, Department of Pharmacy, School of Health Care Professions, University of San Carlos, Cebu City 6000, PhilippinesThis paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed<sup>®</sup>, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log <i>P</i> (cLog <i>P</i>) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD<sub>50</sub> values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog <i>P</i> values for porcine (<i>r</i> = 0.114) and rabbit (<i>r</i> = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (<i>r</i> = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (<i>r</i> = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (<i>n</i> = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/85chemical permeation enhancerskin permeationascorbic acidvitamin Ccosmeticssystematic review
spellingShingle Lord Sam Liston
Precious Lorraine Rivas
Pajaree Sakdiset
Gerard Lee See
Florencio Arce
Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review
Cosmetics
chemical permeation enhancer
skin permeation
ascorbic acid
vitamin C
cosmetics
systematic review
title Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review
title_full Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review
title_fullStr Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review
title_full_unstemmed Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review
title_short Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review
title_sort chemical permeation enhancers for topically applied vitamin c and its derivatives a systematic review
topic chemical permeation enhancer
skin permeation
ascorbic acid
vitamin C
cosmetics
systematic review
url https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/85
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