Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast
Based on the wave climate for the southern Brazilian coast, wave refraction has been modelled in order to obtain the refracted wave heights and directions along the southern Santa Catarina coast, providing the needed information for potential longshore drift estimates. According to its coastline ori...
| Main Authors: | , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Universidade de São Paulo
2007-06-01
|
| Series: | Brazilian Journal of Oceanography |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1679-87592007000200004 |
| _version_ | 1818498136565350400 |
|---|---|
| author | Eduardo Siegle Nils Edvin Asp |
| author_facet | Eduardo Siegle Nils Edvin Asp |
| author_sort | Eduardo Siegle |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | Based on the wave climate for the southern Brazilian coast, wave refraction has been modelled in order to obtain the refracted wave heights and directions along the southern Santa Catarina coast, providing the needed information for potential longshore drift estimates. According to its coastline orientation, different sectors of the coast present varying longshore drift patterns. Estimates have been made for the yearly-averaged wave climate as well as for each season, showing thereby the longshore drift patterns along the year. Based on the results of the potential longshore drift intensities and directions and on the shoreline outline in plan, it has been possible to identify a strongly drift-dominated coast in the south turning to a mixed drift and swash dominated coast towards the north of the studied area. Contrasting patterns of longshore drift between the southern and northern portion of the coastline indicate a sediment surplus in the central portion, making sediment available for cross-shore transport processes, either on- or offshore. Considering long-term aspects, the longshore drift patterns are in agreement with the coastal infilling process which has mainly been driven by persistent surplus from littoral sediment drift.<br>Com base no clima de ondas para o sul da costa brasileira, a refração de ondas foi modelada para a obtenção de alturas e direção das ondas ao longo da costa sul de Santa Catarina. Essas informações permitem a estimativa da deriva litorânea potencial para a região. De acordo com a orientação da linha de costa, diferentes setores do litoral apresentam variados padrões de deriva. As estimativas foram realizadas com base nos dados médios anuais e para cada estação do ano, demonstrando assim a variabilidade dos padrões ao longo do ano. A configuração da linha de costa e os resultados das estimativas de intensidade e direção da deriva indicam o predomínio da deriva litorânea na porção sul da área e um equilíbrio entre processos de espraiamento e de deriva na porção norte. Padrões contrastantes de deriva entre a porção sul e norte da linha de costa indicam um balanço positivo de sedimentos na porção central, disponibilizando sedimentos para os processos de transporte através da costa. Considerando escalas temporais maiores, os padrões de deriva concordam com o processo de preenchimento costeiro que é controlado principalmente pelo aporte de sedimentos pela deriva litorânea. |
| first_indexed | 2024-12-10T18:54:13Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-4a8fac2f03c94e6581c2b559bafac215 |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 1679-8759 1982-436X |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-12-10T18:54:13Z |
| publishDate | 2007-06-01 |
| publisher | Universidade de São Paulo |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Brazilian Journal of Oceanography |
| spelling | doaj.art-4a8fac2f03c94e6581c2b559bafac2152022-12-22T01:37:13ZengUniversidade de São PauloBrazilian Journal of Oceanography1679-87591982-436X2007-06-0155210912010.1590/S1679-87592007000200004Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coastEduardo SiegleNils Edvin AspBased on the wave climate for the southern Brazilian coast, wave refraction has been modelled in order to obtain the refracted wave heights and directions along the southern Santa Catarina coast, providing the needed information for potential longshore drift estimates. According to its coastline orientation, different sectors of the coast present varying longshore drift patterns. Estimates have been made for the yearly-averaged wave climate as well as for each season, showing thereby the longshore drift patterns along the year. Based on the results of the potential longshore drift intensities and directions and on the shoreline outline in plan, it has been possible to identify a strongly drift-dominated coast in the south turning to a mixed drift and swash dominated coast towards the north of the studied area. Contrasting patterns of longshore drift between the southern and northern portion of the coastline indicate a sediment surplus in the central portion, making sediment available for cross-shore transport processes, either on- or offshore. Considering long-term aspects, the longshore drift patterns are in agreement with the coastal infilling process which has mainly been driven by persistent surplus from littoral sediment drift.<br>Com base no clima de ondas para o sul da costa brasileira, a refração de ondas foi modelada para a obtenção de alturas e direção das ondas ao longo da costa sul de Santa Catarina. Essas informações permitem a estimativa da deriva litorânea potencial para a região. De acordo com a orientação da linha de costa, diferentes setores do litoral apresentam variados padrões de deriva. As estimativas foram realizadas com base nos dados médios anuais e para cada estação do ano, demonstrando assim a variabilidade dos padrões ao longo do ano. A configuração da linha de costa e os resultados das estimativas de intensidade e direção da deriva indicam o predomínio da deriva litorânea na porção sul da área e um equilíbrio entre processos de espraiamento e de deriva na porção norte. Padrões contrastantes de deriva entre a porção sul e norte da linha de costa indicam um balanço positivo de sedimentos na porção central, disponibilizando sedimentos para os processos de transporte através da costa. Considerando escalas temporais maiores, os padrões de deriva concordam com o processo de preenchimento costeiro que é controlado principalmente pelo aporte de sedimentos pela deriva litorânea.http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1679-87592007000200004Refração de ondasDeriva litorâneaLitoral sul de Santa CatarinaWave refractionLongshore driftSouthern Santa Catarina coast |
| spellingShingle | Eduardo Siegle Nils Edvin Asp Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast Brazilian Journal of Oceanography Refração de ondas Deriva litorânea Litoral sul de Santa Catarina Wave refraction Longshore drift Southern Santa Catarina coast |
| title | Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast |
| title_full | Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast |
| title_fullStr | Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast |
| title_full_unstemmed | Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast |
| title_short | Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast |
| title_sort | wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern santa catarina coast |
| topic | Refração de ondas Deriva litorânea Litoral sul de Santa Catarina Wave refraction Longshore drift Southern Santa Catarina coast |
| url | http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1679-87592007000200004 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT eduardosiegle waverefractionandlongshoretransportpatternsalongthesouthernsantacatarinacoast AT nilsedvinasp waverefractionandlongshoretransportpatternsalongthesouthernsantacatarinacoast |