Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach...

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Main Authors: Ahmed Abdalazeez, Ira Didenkulova, Denys Dutykh, Céline Labart
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2020-05-01
Series:Water
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4441/12/6/1573
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author Ahmed Abdalazeez
Ira Didenkulova
Denys Dutykh
Céline Labart
author_facet Ahmed Abdalazeez
Ira Didenkulova
Denys Dutykh
Céline Labart
author_sort Ahmed Abdalazeez
collection DOAJ
description The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address different levels of nonlinearity, time series with five different significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the effects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (~360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditional Weibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations.
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spelling doaj.art-53cfcb260b2a47a38bfe1bf77e81fbcb2023-11-20T02:21:23ZengMDPI AGWater2073-44412020-05-01126157310.3390/w12061573Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite BeachAhmed Abdalazeez0Ira Didenkulova1Denys Dutykh2Céline Labart3Department of Marine Systems, Tallinn University of Technology, Akadeemia tee 15A, 12618 Tallinn, EstoniaDepartment of Marine Systems, Tallinn University of Technology, Akadeemia tee 15A, 12618 Tallinn, EstoniaUniv. Grenoble Alpes, Univ. Savoie Mont Blanc, CNRS, LAMA, 73000 Chambéry, FranceUniv. Grenoble Alpes, Univ. Savoie Mont Blanc, CNRS, LAMA, 73000 Chambéry, FranceThe runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address different levels of nonlinearity, time series with five different significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the effects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (~360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditional Weibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations.https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4441/12/6/1573wave statisticswave runupnumerical modellingnonlinear shallow water theorywave breakingfreak runups
spellingShingle Ahmed Abdalazeez
Ira Didenkulova
Denys Dutykh
Céline Labart
Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
Water
wave statistics
wave runup
numerical modelling
nonlinear shallow water theory
wave breaking
freak runups
title Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
title_full Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
title_fullStr Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
title_full_unstemmed Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
title_short Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach
title_sort extreme inundation statistics on a composite beach
topic wave statistics
wave runup
numerical modelling
nonlinear shallow water theory
wave breaking
freak runups
url https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4441/12/6/1573
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AT iradidenkulova extremeinundationstatisticsonacompositebeach
AT denysdutykh extremeinundationstatisticsonacompositebeach
AT celinelabart extremeinundationstatisticsonacompositebeach