(Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion

Abstract Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transiti...

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Main Authors: Tulin Dzhengiz, Teresa Haukkala, Olli Sahimaa
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: SpringerOpen 2023-05-01
Series:Fashion and Textiles
Subjects:
Online Access:https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-023-00337-9
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author Tulin Dzhengiz
Teresa Haukkala
Olli Sahimaa
author_facet Tulin Dzhengiz
Teresa Haukkala
Olli Sahimaa
author_sort Tulin Dzhengiz
collection DOAJ
description Abstract Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transition scholars. Our article explores fashion transitions and develops a conceptual framework demonstrating this transition's multi-level and multi-dimensional interactions. We draw on three literature areas: multi-level perspective (MLP) of sustainable transitions, institutional logics and framing contests. We then introduce a conceptual framework and illustrative examples from the industry and demonstrate the tensions between positive and negative environmental and social sustainability developments at the niche, regime and landscape levels. We show that while many positive developments can be seen in the regime players through the adoption of corporate sustainability initiatives, new business models and collaborations, more attention should also be given to some adverse developments. Overall, we contribute to the literature by exploring fashion transitions, an under-explored context, and by demonstrating the complexity of interactions due to the diffusion of heterogeneous institutional logics and framing contests between players.
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spelling doaj.art-616a8b23fd794b62a4285a0a8b2ad0fc2023-05-28T11:08:49ZengSpringerOpenFashion and Textiles2198-08022023-05-0110113310.1186/s40691-023-00337-9(Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashionTulin Dzhengiz0Teresa Haukkala1Olli Sahimaa2Department of Strategy, Enterprise and Sustainability, Faculty of Business and Law, Manchester Metropolitan UniversityDepartment of Innovation Management & Entrepreneurship (MIE) i³-CRG — Management Research Centre, Innovation Interdisciplinary Institute (UMR CNRS 9217) ÉCOLE POLYTECHNIQUE Drahi Xnovation CenterAalto University School of BusinessAbstract Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transition scholars. Our article explores fashion transitions and develops a conceptual framework demonstrating this transition's multi-level and multi-dimensional interactions. We draw on three literature areas: multi-level perspective (MLP) of sustainable transitions, institutional logics and framing contests. We then introduce a conceptual framework and illustrative examples from the industry and demonstrate the tensions between positive and negative environmental and social sustainability developments at the niche, regime and landscape levels. We show that while many positive developments can be seen in the regime players through the adoption of corporate sustainability initiatives, new business models and collaborations, more attention should also be given to some adverse developments. Overall, we contribute to the literature by exploring fashion transitions, an under-explored context, and by demonstrating the complexity of interactions due to the diffusion of heterogeneous institutional logics and framing contests between players.https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-023-00337-9Multi-level perspectiveSustainability transitionsUnsustainabilityInstitutional logicsFraming contestsFashion industry
spellingShingle Tulin Dzhengiz
Teresa Haukkala
Olli Sahimaa
(Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion
Fashion and Textiles
Multi-level perspective
Sustainability transitions
Unsustainability
Institutional logics
Framing contests
Fashion industry
title (Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion
title_full (Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion
title_fullStr (Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion
title_full_unstemmed (Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion
title_short (Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion
title_sort un sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra fast fashion
topic Multi-level perspective
Sustainability transitions
Unsustainability
Institutional logics
Framing contests
Fashion industry
url https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-023-00337-9
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