Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the Ideal

The paper explores the overlooked attention Johann Joachim Winckelmann gave to clothing and clothed statues. It engages with Winckelmann’s self-fashioning, the costume-based analysis through which he traced the cultural trajectory of antique peoples, and his descriptive and rhetorical passages on dr...

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Main Author: Fiona K. A. Gatty
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Department of Art History, University of Birmingham 2021-12-01
Series:Journal of Art Historiography
Subjects:
Online Access:https://arthistoriography.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/gatty.pdf
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author Fiona K. A. Gatty
author_facet Fiona K. A. Gatty
author_sort Fiona K. A. Gatty
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description The paper explores the overlooked attention Johann Joachim Winckelmann gave to clothing and clothed statues. It engages with Winckelmann’s self-fashioning, the costume-based analysis through which he traced the cultural trajectory of antique peoples, and his descriptive and rhetorical passages on dress. It identifies the invisible and immaterial qualities which Winckelmann attributed to ‘tasteful’ clothing, and proposes that the elegance of Greek clothing was a signifier for the manifestation and transposition of perfect bodily form to the Greek ideal. This re-thinking seeks to address the focus on the Greek male nude figure as his emblem of ideal beauty and proposes that we should integrate draped statues as well as nude ones into Winckelmann’s historic and aesthetic framework.
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spelling doaj.art-647116bf3d844ad69fe168f3cd3511932022-12-21T19:47:13ZengDepartment of Art History, University of BirminghamJournal of Art Historiography2042-47522021-12-012525FG110.48352/uobxjah.00003460)Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the IdealFiona K. A. Gatty 0University of OxfordThe paper explores the overlooked attention Johann Joachim Winckelmann gave to clothing and clothed statues. It engages with Winckelmann’s self-fashioning, the costume-based analysis through which he traced the cultural trajectory of antique peoples, and his descriptive and rhetorical passages on dress. It identifies the invisible and immaterial qualities which Winckelmann attributed to ‘tasteful’ clothing, and proposes that the elegance of Greek clothing was a signifier for the manifestation and transposition of perfect bodily form to the Greek ideal. This re-thinking seeks to address the focus on the Greek male nude figure as his emblem of ideal beauty and proposes that we should integrate draped statues as well as nude ones into Winckelmann’s historic and aesthetic framework.https://arthistoriography.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/gatty.pdfbeautyidealclothingdrapery; fashiongreek clothingideal beautyimitationjohann joachim winckelmanntasteneoclassicism
spellingShingle Fiona K. A. Gatty
Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the Ideal
Journal of Art Historiography
beauty
ideal
clothing
drapery; fashion
greek clothing
ideal beauty
imitation
johann joachim winckelmann
taste
neoclassicism
title Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the Ideal
title_full Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the Ideal
title_fullStr Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the Ideal
title_full_unstemmed Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the Ideal
title_short Re-dressing the balance: Winckelmann, Greek costume and the Ideal
title_sort re dressing the balance winckelmann greek costume and the ideal
topic beauty
ideal
clothing
drapery; fashion
greek clothing
ideal beauty
imitation
johann joachim winckelmann
taste
neoclassicism
url https://arthistoriography.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/gatty.pdf
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