Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states

The study of extreme ocean waves has gained considerable interest in recent years, due to their importance for offshore design and navigation safety, and several theoretical approaches have been developed for their statistical description. However, in the case of crossing seas, where two or more wav...

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Main Authors: Silvio Davison, Alvise Benetazzo, Francesco Barbariol, Guillaume Ducrozet, Jeseon Yoo, Marco Marani
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Frontiers Media S.A. 2022-12-01
Series:Frontiers in Marine Science
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2022.1002806/full
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author Silvio Davison
Alvise Benetazzo
Francesco Barbariol
Guillaume Ducrozet
Jeseon Yoo
Marco Marani
author_facet Silvio Davison
Alvise Benetazzo
Francesco Barbariol
Guillaume Ducrozet
Jeseon Yoo
Marco Marani
author_sort Silvio Davison
collection DOAJ
description The study of extreme ocean waves has gained considerable interest in recent years, due to their importance for offshore design and navigation safety, and several theoretical approaches have been developed for their statistical description. However, in the case of crossing seas, where two or more wave systems of different characteristics are present, a full understanding of the main physical mechanisms responsible for the occurrence of very high individual waves is still lacking. As a consequence, the prediction of extremes in such conditions currently relies on integrated parameters of the total sea state, such as the spectral wave steepness. In this study, to gain further insight into the role of the crossing wind sea and swell wave systems in producing extreme individual waves, we investigate realistic sea states during typhoon Kong-rey (2018) using an ensemble of numerical simulations obtained from a phase-resolving wave model based on the High-Order Spectral (HOS) method. The reliability of the numerical fields is assessed for the first time with stereo wave measurements of the sea surface elevation field collected from an offshore platform in the area of interest. We show that, in specific conditions, space-time extreme crest heights in crossing seas can be larger than in unimodal seas due to second-order bound wave interactions between the wind sea and the swell. To improve existing prediction capabilities, we propose a novel formulation for the wave steepness in crossing seas, which includes nonlinear effects up to the second order and accounts for the spectral parameters of the interacting wave systems.
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spelling doaj.art-67683981c6f94857a88ce0063821766d2022-12-22T03:45:55ZengFrontiers Media S.A.Frontiers in Marine Science2296-77452022-12-01910.3389/fmars.2022.10028061002806Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea statesSilvio Davison0Alvise Benetazzo1Francesco Barbariol2Guillaume Ducrozet3Jeseon Yoo4Marco Marani5Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (CNR), Istituto di Scienze Marine (ISMAR), Venice, ItalyConsiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (CNR), Istituto di Scienze Marine (ISMAR), Venice, ItalyConsiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (CNR), Istituto di Scienze Marine (ISMAR), Venice, ItalyNantes Université, École Centrale Nantes, Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Research Laboratory in Hydrodynamics, Energetics & Atmospheric Environment (LHEEA), Nantes, FranceKorea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology (KIOST), Marine Disaster Research Center, Busan, South KoreaDepartment of Civil, Architectural and Environmental Engineering, University of Padua, Padua, ItalyThe study of extreme ocean waves has gained considerable interest in recent years, due to their importance for offshore design and navigation safety, and several theoretical approaches have been developed for their statistical description. However, in the case of crossing seas, where two or more wave systems of different characteristics are present, a full understanding of the main physical mechanisms responsible for the occurrence of very high individual waves is still lacking. As a consequence, the prediction of extremes in such conditions currently relies on integrated parameters of the total sea state, such as the spectral wave steepness. In this study, to gain further insight into the role of the crossing wind sea and swell wave systems in producing extreme individual waves, we investigate realistic sea states during typhoon Kong-rey (2018) using an ensemble of numerical simulations obtained from a phase-resolving wave model based on the High-Order Spectral (HOS) method. The reliability of the numerical fields is assessed for the first time with stereo wave measurements of the sea surface elevation field collected from an offshore platform in the area of interest. We show that, in specific conditions, space-time extreme crest heights in crossing seas can be larger than in unimodal seas due to second-order bound wave interactions between the wind sea and the swell. To improve existing prediction capabilities, we propose a novel formulation for the wave steepness in crossing seas, which includes nonlinear effects up to the second order and accounts for the spectral parameters of the interacting wave systems.https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2022.1002806/fullextreme wavescrossing seasHigh-Order Spectral methodcyclone windsstereo wave imaging
spellingShingle Silvio Davison
Alvise Benetazzo
Francesco Barbariol
Guillaume Ducrozet
Jeseon Yoo
Marco Marani
Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states
Frontiers in Marine Science
extreme waves
crossing seas
High-Order Spectral method
cyclone winds
stereo wave imaging
title Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states
title_full Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states
title_fullStr Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states
title_full_unstemmed Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states
title_short Space-time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states
title_sort space time statistics of extreme ocean waves in crossing sea states
topic extreme waves
crossing seas
High-Order Spectral method
cyclone winds
stereo wave imaging
url https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2022.1002806/full
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