Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopy

Abstract Aqueous bleaching may be used in textile conservation to improve the appearance of historic and culturally significant textiles. It is generally accepted amongst conservators that bleaching imparts damage. The aim of this research is to characterise the condition of cotton fibre's surf...

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Main Authors: Rana T. A. Salem, Karen Thompson, Mahesh Uttamlal
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: SpringerOpen 2022-12-01
Series:Heritage Science
Subjects:
Online Access:https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-022-00830-2
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author Rana T. A. Salem
Karen Thompson
Mahesh Uttamlal
author_facet Rana T. A. Salem
Karen Thompson
Mahesh Uttamlal
author_sort Rana T. A. Salem
collection DOAJ
description Abstract Aqueous bleaching may be used in textile conservation to improve the appearance of historic and culturally significant textiles. It is generally accepted amongst conservators that bleaching imparts damage. The aim of this research is to characterise the condition of cotton fibre's surface pre- and post-bleaching using atomic force microscopy (AFM). Unprocessed cotton calico (‘raw’ cotton), scoured cotton, and a historic cotton dress shirt (circa. 1920) were bleached using three separate methods: NaBH4 for 15 min; H2O2/NaBO3 for 1 h; and H2O2/NaBO3 buffered to pH 8.4 for 1 h. AFM was used in tapping-mode to obtain height, amplitude, and phase images. AFM imaging was able to distinguish between the cuticle, primary walls, and secondary walls of the cotton fibres. The data shows that bleaching has the effect of softening and removing individual layers of the cotton structure. Unprocessed cotton calico and scoured cotton fared better against the impact of bleaching. This was in stark contrast to the historic shirt where the already damaged surface of cotton fibres underwent further degradation using both oxidative and reductive bleaching. In general, reductive bleaching was more aggressive on the fibre surface compared to oxidative bleaching. The use of AFM provides further evidence of the physical effects of bleaching on historic textiles, and cotton textiles more broadly, and it has the potential to influence the conservator’s decision-making.
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spelling doaj.art-6d25db9a67a642948b5f601afc5038422022-12-22T03:50:33ZengSpringerOpenHeritage Science2050-74452022-12-0110111210.1186/s40494-022-00830-2Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopyRana T. A. Salem0Karen Thompson1Mahesh Uttamlal2Department of Applied Science, Glasgow Caledonian UniversityKelvin Centre for Conservation and Cultural Heritage Research, University of GlasgowDepartment of Applied Science, Glasgow Caledonian UniversityAbstract Aqueous bleaching may be used in textile conservation to improve the appearance of historic and culturally significant textiles. It is generally accepted amongst conservators that bleaching imparts damage. The aim of this research is to characterise the condition of cotton fibre's surface pre- and post-bleaching using atomic force microscopy (AFM). Unprocessed cotton calico (‘raw’ cotton), scoured cotton, and a historic cotton dress shirt (circa. 1920) were bleached using three separate methods: NaBH4 for 15 min; H2O2/NaBO3 for 1 h; and H2O2/NaBO3 buffered to pH 8.4 for 1 h. AFM was used in tapping-mode to obtain height, amplitude, and phase images. AFM imaging was able to distinguish between the cuticle, primary walls, and secondary walls of the cotton fibres. The data shows that bleaching has the effect of softening and removing individual layers of the cotton structure. Unprocessed cotton calico and scoured cotton fared better against the impact of bleaching. This was in stark contrast to the historic shirt where the already damaged surface of cotton fibres underwent further degradation using both oxidative and reductive bleaching. In general, reductive bleaching was more aggressive on the fibre surface compared to oxidative bleaching. The use of AFM provides further evidence of the physical effects of bleaching on historic textiles, and cotton textiles more broadly, and it has the potential to influence the conservator’s decision-making.https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-022-00830-2TextilesConservationCelluloseAtomic force microscopyNanoscienceFibres
spellingShingle Rana T. A. Salem
Karen Thompson
Mahesh Uttamlal
Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopy
Heritage Science
Textiles
Conservation
Cellulose
Atomic force microscopy
Nanoscience
Fibres
title Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopy
title_full Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopy
title_fullStr Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopy
title_full_unstemmed Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopy
title_short Bleaching cotton in textile conservation: a closer look using atomic force microscopy
title_sort bleaching cotton in textile conservation a closer look using atomic force microscopy
topic Textiles
Conservation
Cellulose
Atomic force microscopy
Nanoscience
Fibres
url https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-022-00830-2
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