Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes
Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was ai...
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MDPI AG
2021-08-01
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author | Angela Punzo Emanuele Porru Alessia Silla Patrizia Simoni Paola Galletti Aldo Roda Emilio Tagliavini Chiara Samorì Cristiana Caliceti |
author_facet | Angela Punzo Emanuele Porru Alessia Silla Patrizia Simoni Paola Galletti Aldo Roda Emilio Tagliavini Chiara Samorì Cristiana Caliceti |
author_sort | Angela Punzo |
collection | DOAJ |
description | Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51–56 μg mL<sup>−1</sup>) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 μg mL<sup>−1</sup> in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (<i>p</i> < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging. |
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spelling | doaj.art-762cf9e0ee9c4b9b916195e9115083d52023-11-22T06:56:00ZengMDPI AGBiomolecules2218-273X2021-08-01118118110.3390/biom11081181Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human KeratinocytesAngela Punzo0Emanuele Porru1Alessia Silla2Patrizia Simoni3Paola Galletti4Aldo Roda5Emilio Tagliavini6Chiara Samorì7Cristiana Caliceti8Department of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Biomedical and Neuromotor Sciences, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Medical and Surgical Sciences, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40138 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Biomedical and Neuromotor Sciences, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyFood waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51–56 μg mL<sup>−1</sup>) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 μg mL<sup>−1</sup> in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (<i>p</i> < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging.https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/11/8/1181red grape pomace skinnatural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES)malvidinskin permeationhuman 3D keratinocytesoxidative stress |
spellingShingle | Angela Punzo Emanuele Porru Alessia Silla Patrizia Simoni Paola Galletti Aldo Roda Emilio Tagliavini Chiara Samorì Cristiana Caliceti Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes Biomolecules red grape pomace skin natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) malvidin skin permeation human 3D keratinocytes oxidative stress |
title | Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes |
title_full | Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes |
title_fullStr | Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes |
title_full_unstemmed | Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes |
title_short | Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes |
title_sort | grape pomace for topical application green nades sustainable extraction skin permeation studies antioxidant and anti inflammatory activities characterization in 3d human keratinocytes |
topic | red grape pomace skin natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) malvidin skin permeation human 3D keratinocytes oxidative stress |
url | https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/11/8/1181 |
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