Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes

Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was ai...

Full description

Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Angela Punzo, Emanuele Porru, Alessia Silla, Patrizia Simoni, Paola Galletti, Aldo Roda, Emilio Tagliavini, Chiara Samorì, Cristiana Caliceti
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2021-08-01
Series:Biomolecules
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/11/8/1181
_version_ 1797524581586567168
author Angela Punzo
Emanuele Porru
Alessia Silla
Patrizia Simoni
Paola Galletti
Aldo Roda
Emilio Tagliavini
Chiara Samorì
Cristiana Caliceti
author_facet Angela Punzo
Emanuele Porru
Alessia Silla
Patrizia Simoni
Paola Galletti
Aldo Roda
Emilio Tagliavini
Chiara Samorì
Cristiana Caliceti
author_sort Angela Punzo
collection DOAJ
description Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51–56 μg mL<sup>−1</sup>) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 μg mL<sup>−1</sup> in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (<i>p</i> < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging.
first_indexed 2024-03-10T08:58:29Z
format Article
id doaj.art-762cf9e0ee9c4b9b916195e9115083d5
institution Directory Open Access Journal
issn 2218-273X
language English
last_indexed 2024-03-10T08:58:29Z
publishDate 2021-08-01
publisher MDPI AG
record_format Article
series Biomolecules
spelling doaj.art-762cf9e0ee9c4b9b916195e9115083d52023-11-22T06:56:00ZengMDPI AGBiomolecules2218-273X2021-08-01118118110.3390/biom11081181Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human KeratinocytesAngela Punzo0Emanuele Porru1Alessia Silla2Patrizia Simoni3Paola Galletti4Aldo Roda5Emilio Tagliavini6Chiara Samorì7Cristiana Caliceti8Department of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Biomedical and Neuromotor Sciences, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Medical and Surgical Sciences, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40138 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Chemistry “Giacomo Ciamician”, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyDepartment of Biomedical and Neuromotor Sciences, Alma Mater Studiorum-University of Bologna, 40126 Bologna, ItalyFood waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51–56 μg mL<sup>−1</sup>) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 μg mL<sup>−1</sup> in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (<i>p</i> < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging.https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/11/8/1181red grape pomace skinnatural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES)malvidinskin permeationhuman 3D keratinocytesoxidative stress
spellingShingle Angela Punzo
Emanuele Porru
Alessia Silla
Patrizia Simoni
Paola Galletti
Aldo Roda
Emilio Tagliavini
Chiara Samorì
Cristiana Caliceti
Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes
Biomolecules
red grape pomace skin
natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES)
malvidin
skin permeation
human 3D keratinocytes
oxidative stress
title Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes
title_full Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes
title_fullStr Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes
title_full_unstemmed Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes
title_short Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes
title_sort grape pomace for topical application green nades sustainable extraction skin permeation studies antioxidant and anti inflammatory activities characterization in 3d human keratinocytes
topic red grape pomace skin
natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES)
malvidin
skin permeation
human 3D keratinocytes
oxidative stress
url https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/11/8/1181
work_keys_str_mv AT angelapunzo grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT emanueleporru grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT alessiasilla grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT patriziasimoni grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT paolagalletti grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT aldoroda grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT emiliotagliavini grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT chiarasamori grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes
AT cristianacaliceti grapepomacefortopicalapplicationgreennadessustainableextractionskinpermeationstudiesantioxidantandantiinflammatoryactivitiescharacterizationin3dhumankeratinocytes