Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin
Daniel Bacqueville,1,* Anne Maret,2,* Maïté Noizet,1 Laure Duprat,1 Christine Coutanceau,3 Victor Georgescu,3 Sandrine Bessou-Touya,1 Hélène Duplan1 1Department of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France; 2Clinical Skin Resea...
| Main Authors: | , , , , , , , |
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Dove Medical Press
2020-05-01
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| Series: | Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | https://www.dovepress.com/efficacy-of-a-dermocosmetic-serum-combining-bakuchiol-and-vanilla-tahi-peer-reviewed-article-CCID |
| _version_ | 1818039285292466176 |
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| author | Bacqueville D Maret A Noizet M Duprat L Coutanceau C Georgescu V Bessou-Touya S Duplan H |
| author_facet | Bacqueville D Maret A Noizet M Duprat L Coutanceau C Georgescu V Bessou-Touya S Duplan H |
| author_sort | Bacqueville D |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | Daniel Bacqueville,1,* Anne Maret,2,* Maïté Noizet,1 Laure Duprat,1 Christine Coutanceau,3 Victor Georgescu,3 Sandrine Bessou-Touya,1 Hélène Duplan1 1Department of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France; 2Clinical Skin Research Center, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France; 3Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène, Lavaur, France*These authors contributed equally to this workCorrespondence: Daniel BacquevilleDepartment of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Avenue Hubert Curien, BP 13562, 31035 Toulouse Cedex 1, FranceTel +33 5 34 50 64 27Fax +33 5 34 50 34 24Email daniel.bacqueville@pierre-fabre.comBackground: Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure.Objective: To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin.Materials and Methods: Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs.Results: UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety.Conclusion: BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.Keywords: anti-aging therapy, clinical trial, inflammaging, senescence, skin model |
| first_indexed | 2024-12-10T07:56:12Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-8161c0b87ac04aa3811e7fa1a39a46e6 |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 1178-7015 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-12-10T07:56:12Z |
| publishDate | 2020-05-01 |
| publisher | Dove Medical Press |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology |
| spelling | doaj.art-8161c0b87ac04aa3811e7fa1a39a46e62022-12-22T01:56:54ZengDove Medical PressClinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology1178-70152020-05-01Volume 1335937053739Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged SkinBacqueville DMaret ANoizet MDuprat LCoutanceau CGeorgescu VBessou-Touya SDuplan HDaniel Bacqueville,1,* Anne Maret,2,* Maïté Noizet,1 Laure Duprat,1 Christine Coutanceau,3 Victor Georgescu,3 Sandrine Bessou-Touya,1 Hélène Duplan1 1Department of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France; 2Clinical Skin Research Center, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France; 3Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène, Lavaur, France*These authors contributed equally to this workCorrespondence: Daniel BacquevilleDepartment of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Avenue Hubert Curien, BP 13562, 31035 Toulouse Cedex 1, FranceTel +33 5 34 50 64 27Fax +33 5 34 50 34 24Email daniel.bacqueville@pierre-fabre.comBackground: Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure.Objective: To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin.Materials and Methods: Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs.Results: UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety.Conclusion: BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.Keywords: anti-aging therapy, clinical trial, inflammaging, senescence, skin modelhttps://www.dovepress.com/efficacy-of-a-dermocosmetic-serum-combining-bakuchiol-and-vanilla-tahi-peer-reviewed-article-CCIDanti-aging therapyclinical trialinflammagingsenescenceskin model |
| spellingShingle | Bacqueville D Maret A Noizet M Duprat L Coutanceau C Georgescu V Bessou-Touya S Duplan H Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology anti-aging therapy clinical trial inflammaging senescence skin model |
| title | Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin |
| title_full | Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin |
| title_fullStr | Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin |
| title_full_unstemmed | Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin |
| title_short | Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin |
| title_sort | efficacy of a dermocosmetic serum combining bakuchiol and vanilla tahitensis extract to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin |
| topic | anti-aging therapy clinical trial inflammaging senescence skin model |
| url | https://www.dovepress.com/efficacy-of-a-dermocosmetic-serum-combining-bakuchiol-and-vanilla-tahi-peer-reviewed-article-CCID |
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