Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations

Some commonly used surfactants in cosmetic products raise concerns due to their skin-irritating effects and environmental contamination. Multifunctional, high-performance polymers are good alternatives to overcome these problems. In this study, agarose stearate (AS) with emulsifying, thickening, and...

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Main Authors: Qiong Xiao, Guo Chen, Yong-Hui Zhang, Fu-Quan Chen, Hui-Fen Weng, An-Feng Xiao
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2021-06-01
Series:Marine Drugs
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/1660-3397/19/6/344
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author Qiong Xiao
Guo Chen
Yong-Hui Zhang
Fu-Quan Chen
Hui-Fen Weng
An-Feng Xiao
author_facet Qiong Xiao
Guo Chen
Yong-Hui Zhang
Fu-Quan Chen
Hui-Fen Weng
An-Feng Xiao
author_sort Qiong Xiao
collection DOAJ
description Some commonly used surfactants in cosmetic products raise concerns due to their skin-irritating effects and environmental contamination. Multifunctional, high-performance polymers are good alternatives to overcome these problems. In this study, agarose stearate (AS) with emulsifying, thickening, and gel properties was synthesized. Surfactant-free cosmetic formulations were successfully prepared from AS and carbomer<sub>940</sub> (CBM<sub>940</sub>) mixed systems. The correlation of rheological parameter with skin feeling was determined to study the usability of the mixed systems in cosmetics. Based on rheological analysis, the surfactant-free cosmetic cream (SFC) stabilized by AS-carbomer<sub>940</sub> showed shear-thinning behavior and strongly synergistic action. The SFC exhibited a gel-like behavior and had rheological properties similar to commercial cosmetic creams. Scanning electron microscope images proved that the AS-CBM<sub>940</sub> network played an important role in SFC’s stability. Oil content could reinforce the elastic characteristics of the AS-CBM<sub>940</sub> matrix. The SFCs showed a good appearance and sensation during and after rubbing into skin. The knowledge gained from this study may be useful for designing surfactant-free cosmetic cream with rheological properties that can be tailored for particular commercial cosmetic applications. They may also be useful for producing medicine products with highly viscous or gel-like textures, such as some ointments and wound dressings.
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spelling doaj.art-866c39413ff742649630f7d1e047b14e2023-11-22T00:18:36ZengMDPI AGMarine Drugs1660-33972021-06-0119634410.3390/md19060344Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic FormulationsQiong Xiao0Guo Chen1Yong-Hui Zhang2Fu-Quan Chen3Hui-Fen Weng4An-Feng Xiao5College of Food and Biological Engineering, Jimei University, Xiamen 361021, ChinaDepartment of Biotechnology and Bioengineering, Huaqiao University, Xiamen 361021, ChinaCollege of Food and Biological Engineering, Jimei University, Xiamen 361021, ChinaCollege of Food and Biological Engineering, Jimei University, Xiamen 361021, ChinaCollege of Food and Biological Engineering, Jimei University, Xiamen 361021, ChinaCollege of Food and Biological Engineering, Jimei University, Xiamen 361021, ChinaSome commonly used surfactants in cosmetic products raise concerns due to their skin-irritating effects and environmental contamination. Multifunctional, high-performance polymers are good alternatives to overcome these problems. In this study, agarose stearate (AS) with emulsifying, thickening, and gel properties was synthesized. Surfactant-free cosmetic formulations were successfully prepared from AS and carbomer<sub>940</sub> (CBM<sub>940</sub>) mixed systems. The correlation of rheological parameter with skin feeling was determined to study the usability of the mixed systems in cosmetics. Based on rheological analysis, the surfactant-free cosmetic cream (SFC) stabilized by AS-carbomer<sub>940</sub> showed shear-thinning behavior and strongly synergistic action. The SFC exhibited a gel-like behavior and had rheological properties similar to commercial cosmetic creams. Scanning electron microscope images proved that the AS-CBM<sub>940</sub> network played an important role in SFC’s stability. Oil content could reinforce the elastic characteristics of the AS-CBM<sub>940</sub> matrix. The SFCs showed a good appearance and sensation during and after rubbing into skin. The knowledge gained from this study may be useful for designing surfactant-free cosmetic cream with rheological properties that can be tailored for particular commercial cosmetic applications. They may also be useful for producing medicine products with highly viscous or gel-like textures, such as some ointments and wound dressings.https://www.mdpi.com/1660-3397/19/6/344agarose stearatecarbomer<sub>940</sub>surfactant-free cosmeticsrheological behaviorsensory evaluation
spellingShingle Qiong Xiao
Guo Chen
Yong-Hui Zhang
Fu-Quan Chen
Hui-Fen Weng
An-Feng Xiao
Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations
Marine Drugs
agarose stearate
carbomer<sub>940</sub>
surfactant-free cosmetics
rheological behavior
sensory evaluation
title Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations
title_full Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations
title_fullStr Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations
title_full_unstemmed Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations
title_short Agarose Stearate-Carbomer<sub>940</sub> as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations
title_sort agarose stearate carbomer sub 940 sub as stabilizer and rheology modifier for surfactant free cosmetic formulations
topic agarose stearate
carbomer<sub>940</sub>
surfactant-free cosmetics
rheological behavior
sensory evaluation
url https://www.mdpi.com/1660-3397/19/6/344
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