Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso

The practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cos...

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Main Authors: Boumbéwendin Gérard Josias Yaméogo, Lydiane Sandra B. A. Ilboudo, Nomtondo Amina Ouédraogo, Mohamed Belem, Ouéogo Nikiema, Bertrand W. Goumbri, Bavouma Charles Sombié, Hermine Zimé-Diawara, Elie Kabré, Rasmané Semdé
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2023-11-01
Series:Cosmetics
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/6/154
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author Boumbéwendin Gérard Josias Yaméogo
Lydiane Sandra B. A. Ilboudo
Nomtondo Amina Ouédraogo
Mohamed Belem
Ouéogo Nikiema
Bertrand W. Goumbri
Bavouma Charles Sombié
Hermine Zimé-Diawara
Elie Kabré
Rasmané Semdé
author_facet Boumbéwendin Gérard Josias Yaméogo
Lydiane Sandra B. A. Ilboudo
Nomtondo Amina Ouédraogo
Mohamed Belem
Ouéogo Nikiema
Bertrand W. Goumbri
Bavouma Charles Sombié
Hermine Zimé-Diawara
Elie Kabré
Rasmané Semdé
author_sort Boumbéwendin Gérard Josias Yaméogo
collection DOAJ
description The practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cosmetic samples were collected from vendors and HPLC analysis was subsequently conducted to identify and measure the concentrations of hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and kojic acid. The presence of hydroquinone was indicated on the label of 13.79% of the products, while 51.72% contained it after analysis. Furthermore, none of the products mentioned a concentration of hydroquinone exceeding 2.00%, even though 27.58% of them contained high concentrations. For clobetasol propionate, its presence was stated on the labels of 13.79% of the products, while 31.03% contained it. One sample had a clobetasol content exceeding 0.05%, although none mentioned a concentration higher than this value. Finally, while 24.13% of the samples claimed to contain kojic acid, only 17.24% did. We also observed that 41.38% of the samples contained combinations of two depigmenting ingredients investigated, with a predominance of the hydroquinone + clobetasol propionate (27.38%). These results demonstrate that manufacturers’ declarations regarding the compositions of active ingredients in lightening cosmetics can sometimes be deceptive.
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spelling doaj.art-8f02ebe3a8694b8580346999edf24cea2023-12-22T14:01:36ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842023-11-0110615410.3390/cosmetics10060154Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina FasoBoumbéwendin Gérard Josias Yaméogo0Lydiane Sandra B. A. Ilboudo1Nomtondo Amina Ouédraogo2Mohamed Belem3Ouéogo Nikiema4Bertrand W. Goumbri5Bavouma Charles Sombié6Hermine Zimé-Diawara7Elie Kabré8Rasmané Semdé9Drug Development Laboratory (LADME), Center for Training, Research and Expertise in Medicine Sciences (CEA-CFOREM), Doctoral School of Sciences and Health (ED2S), University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina FasoDrug Development Laboratory (LADME), Center for Training, Research and Expertise in Medicine Sciences (CEA-CFOREM), Doctoral School of Sciences and Health (ED2S), University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina FasoService of Dermatology-Venereology, University Hospital Center Yalgado Ouédraogo, University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina FasoNational Agency for Health Safety of the Environment, Food, Work and Health Products (ANSSEAT), Ministry of Health, Ouagadougou 09 BP 24, Burkina FasoNational Agency for Health Safety of the Environment, Food, Work and Health Products (ANSSEAT), Ministry of Health, Ouagadougou 09 BP 24, Burkina FasoNational Agency for Health Safety of the Environment, Food, Work and Health Products (ANSSEAT), Ministry of Health, Ouagadougou 09 BP 24, Burkina FasoDrug Development Laboratory (LADME), Center for Training, Research and Expertise in Medicine Sciences (CEA-CFOREM), Doctoral School of Sciences and Health (ED2S), University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina FasoDrug Development Laboratory (LADME), Center for Training, Research and Expertise in Medicine Sciences (CEA-CFOREM), Doctoral School of Sciences and Health (ED2S), University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina FasoNational Agency for Health Safety of the Environment, Food, Work and Health Products (ANSSEAT), Ministry of Health, Ouagadougou 09 BP 24, Burkina FasoDrug Development Laboratory (LADME), Center for Training, Research and Expertise in Medicine Sciences (CEA-CFOREM), Doctoral School of Sciences and Health (ED2S), University Joseph KI-ZERBO, Ouagadougou 03 BP 7021, Burkina FasoThe practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cosmetic samples were collected from vendors and HPLC analysis was subsequently conducted to identify and measure the concentrations of hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and kojic acid. The presence of hydroquinone was indicated on the label of 13.79% of the products, while 51.72% contained it after analysis. Furthermore, none of the products mentioned a concentration of hydroquinone exceeding 2.00%, even though 27.58% of them contained high concentrations. For clobetasol propionate, its presence was stated on the labels of 13.79% of the products, while 31.03% contained it. One sample had a clobetasol content exceeding 0.05%, although none mentioned a concentration higher than this value. Finally, while 24.13% of the samples claimed to contain kojic acid, only 17.24% did. We also observed that 41.38% of the samples contained combinations of two depigmenting ingredients investigated, with a predominance of the hydroquinone + clobetasol propionate (27.38%). These results demonstrate that manufacturers’ declarations regarding the compositions of active ingredients in lightening cosmetics can sometimes be deceptive.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/6/154lightening cosmetichydroquinoneclobetasol propionatekojic acidHPLC analysis
spellingShingle Boumbéwendin Gérard Josias Yaméogo
Lydiane Sandra B. A. Ilboudo
Nomtondo Amina Ouédraogo
Mohamed Belem
Ouéogo Nikiema
Bertrand W. Goumbri
Bavouma Charles Sombié
Hermine Zimé-Diawara
Elie Kabré
Rasmané Semdé
Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso
Cosmetics
lightening cosmetic
hydroquinone
clobetasol propionate
kojic acid
HPLC analysis
title Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso
title_full Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso
title_fullStr Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso
title_full_unstemmed Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso
title_short Analysis of Depigmenting Substances of Interest (Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, and Clobetasol Propionate) Contained in Lightening Cosmetic Products Marketed in Burkina Faso
title_sort analysis of depigmenting substances of interest hydroquinone kojic acid and clobetasol propionate contained in lightening cosmetic products marketed in burkina faso
topic lightening cosmetic
hydroquinone
clobetasol propionate
kojic acid
HPLC analysis
url https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/6/154
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