A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics

The natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogene...

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Main Authors: Bruno Fernandes, Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Teresa Matamá
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2023-02-01
Series:Biology
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-7737/12/2/290
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author Bruno Fernandes
Artur Cavaco-Paulo
Teresa Matamá
author_facet Bruno Fernandes
Artur Cavaco-Paulo
Teresa Matamá
author_sort Bruno Fernandes
collection DOAJ
description The natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out.
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spelling doaj.art-9636c023c1104e4b861343b506eb01ea2023-11-16T19:14:20ZengMDPI AGBiology2079-77372023-02-0112229010.3390/biology12020290A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing CosmeticsBruno Fernandes0Artur Cavaco-Paulo1Teresa Matamá2CEB—Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057 Braga, PortugalCEB—Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057 Braga, PortugalCEB—Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057 Braga, PortugalThe natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-7737/12/2/290hair folliclemelanocytesmelanosomesmelanogenesismelaninshair pigmentation
spellingShingle Bruno Fernandes
Artur Cavaco-Paulo
Teresa Matamá
A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics
Biology
hair follicle
melanocytes
melanosomes
melanogenesis
melanins
hair pigmentation
title A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics
title_full A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics
title_fullStr A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics
title_full_unstemmed A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics
title_short A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics
title_sort comprehensive review of mammalian pigmentation paving the way for innovative hair colour changing cosmetics
topic hair follicle
melanocytes
melanosomes
melanogenesis
melanins
hair pigmentation
url https://www.mdpi.com/2079-7737/12/2/290
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