The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, Spain

Despite the increasing scientific and public interest in wild food plants, their traditional knowledge is undergoing a deep cultural erosion process at a global scale. The paper assesses past and present use of wild food plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid (Spain) in order to understand which are the m...

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Main Authors: Laura Aceituno-Mata, Javier Tardío, Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Frontiers Media S.A. 2021-01-01
Series:Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsufs.2020.610238/full
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author Laura Aceituno-Mata
Laura Aceituno-Mata
Javier Tardío
Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana
Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana
author_facet Laura Aceituno-Mata
Laura Aceituno-Mata
Javier Tardío
Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana
Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana
author_sort Laura Aceituno-Mata
collection DOAJ
description Despite the increasing scientific and public interest in wild food plants, their traditional knowledge is undergoing a deep cultural erosion process at a global scale. The paper assesses past and present use of wild food plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid (Spain) in order to understand which are the main drivers of its evolution. We interviewed 132 informants and analyzed the cultural importance and present use of the following: (1) the human food use-category compared with all the other use-subcategories, (2) the food plant species, and (3) the human food use-subcategories (e.g., vegetables, fruits, condiments, or beverages). The useful wild flora included 252 plant species, of which 74 were traditionally used as human food, which is the most culturally important use-category. The most important species were three vegetables consumed cooked (Scolymus hispanicus, Bryonia dioica, and Silene vulgaris), other two greens that were eaten raw (Rumex papillaris and Montia fontana), a condiment (Thymus zygis), and a fruit (Rubus ulmifolius). Among food use-categories, vegetables was the category with a higher cultural importance index, but beverages and condiments had the lowest cultural erosion rate. We found several drivers of change in the use of wild food plants, some enhancing the trend of abandonment that affects differently certain uses and species, and others encouraging their maintenance. Factors that may explain the general erosion trend are linked to the abandonment of traditional agricultural practices and shepherding: (1) the decrease in the abundance and quality of wild food plants; (2) wild food plants are no longer necessary for subsistence; (3) the reduction of time spent in the countryside; and (4) the negative connotations of some species that are considered famine food. On the other hand, there are several motivations for gathering and using wild food plants: (1) gathering is seen as a leisure and community building activity; (2) the intense flavor of wild plants, which cannot be substituted by cultivated or commercial ones; (3) positive values associated with some species consumed as everyday food that are now considered delicatessen; and (4) the medicinal role of food, mainly food uses closer to medicine such as beverages and condiments.
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spelling doaj.art-a0e05243517c4974a2585761744c38302022-12-21T19:02:31ZengFrontiers Media S.A.Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems2571-581X2021-01-01410.3389/fsufs.2020.610238610238The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, SpainLaura Aceituno-Mata0Laura Aceituno-Mata1Javier Tardío2Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana3Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana4Instituto Madrileño de Investigación y Desarrollo Rural, Agrario y Alimentario, Alcalá de Henares, Madrid, SpainDepartamento de Biología (Botánica), Universidad Autónoma de Madrid, Madrid, SpainInstituto Madrileño de Investigación y Desarrollo Rural, Agrario y Alimentario, Alcalá de Henares, Madrid, SpainDepartamento de Biología (Botánica), Universidad Autónoma de Madrid, Madrid, SpainCentro de Investigación en Biodiversidad y Cambio Global (CIBC-UAM), Universidad Autónoma de Madrid, Madrid, SpainDespite the increasing scientific and public interest in wild food plants, their traditional knowledge is undergoing a deep cultural erosion process at a global scale. The paper assesses past and present use of wild food plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid (Spain) in order to understand which are the main drivers of its evolution. We interviewed 132 informants and analyzed the cultural importance and present use of the following: (1) the human food use-category compared with all the other use-subcategories, (2) the food plant species, and (3) the human food use-subcategories (e.g., vegetables, fruits, condiments, or beverages). The useful wild flora included 252 plant species, of which 74 were traditionally used as human food, which is the most culturally important use-category. The most important species were three vegetables consumed cooked (Scolymus hispanicus, Bryonia dioica, and Silene vulgaris), other two greens that were eaten raw (Rumex papillaris and Montia fontana), a condiment (Thymus zygis), and a fruit (Rubus ulmifolius). Among food use-categories, vegetables was the category with a higher cultural importance index, but beverages and condiments had the lowest cultural erosion rate. We found several drivers of change in the use of wild food plants, some enhancing the trend of abandonment that affects differently certain uses and species, and others encouraging their maintenance. Factors that may explain the general erosion trend are linked to the abandonment of traditional agricultural practices and shepherding: (1) the decrease in the abundance and quality of wild food plants; (2) wild food plants are no longer necessary for subsistence; (3) the reduction of time spent in the countryside; and (4) the negative connotations of some species that are considered famine food. On the other hand, there are several motivations for gathering and using wild food plants: (1) gathering is seen as a leisure and community building activity; (2) the intense flavor of wild plants, which cannot be substituted by cultivated or commercial ones; (3) positive values associated with some species consumed as everyday food that are now considered delicatessen; and (4) the medicinal role of food, mainly food uses closer to medicine such as beverages and condiments.https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsufs.2020.610238/fullwild edible plants mergetraditional ecological knowledgeethnobotanycultural erosion ratiocultural importancetraditional gastronomy
spellingShingle Laura Aceituno-Mata
Laura Aceituno-Mata
Javier Tardío
Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana
Manuel Pardo-de-Santayana
The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, Spain
Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems
wild edible plants merge
traditional ecological knowledge
ethnobotany
cultural erosion ratio
cultural importance
traditional gastronomy
title The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, Spain
title_full The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, Spain
title_fullStr The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, Spain
title_full_unstemmed The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, Spain
title_short The Persistence of Flavor: Past and Present Use of Wild Food Plants in Sierra Norte de Madrid, Spain
title_sort persistence of flavor past and present use of wild food plants in sierra norte de madrid spain
topic wild edible plants merge
traditional ecological knowledge
ethnobotany
cultural erosion ratio
cultural importance
traditional gastronomy
url https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsufs.2020.610238/full
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