Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves

This study focuses on the hindcasting and forecasting of observed offshore tidal sand waves by using a state-of-the-art numerical morphodynamic model. The sand waves, having heights of several meters, evolve on timescales of years. Following earlier work, the model has a 2DV configuration (one horiz...

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Main Authors: Janneke Krabbendam, Abdel Nnafie, Huib de Swart, Bas Borsje, Luitze Perk
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2021-09-01
Series:Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/10/1071
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author Janneke Krabbendam
Abdel Nnafie
Huib de Swart
Bas Borsje
Luitze Perk
author_facet Janneke Krabbendam
Abdel Nnafie
Huib de Swart
Bas Borsje
Luitze Perk
author_sort Janneke Krabbendam
collection DOAJ
description This study focuses on the hindcasting and forecasting of observed offshore tidal sand waves by using a state-of-the-art numerical morphodynamic model. The sand waves, having heights of several meters, evolve on timescales of years. Following earlier work, the model has a 2DV configuration (one horizontal and one vertical direction). First, the skill of the model is assessed by performing hindcasts at four transects in the North Sea where sand wave data are available of multiple surveys that are at least 10 years apart. The first transect is used for calibration and this calibrated model is applied to the other three transects. It is found that the calibrated model performs well: the Brier Skill Score is ‘excellent’ at the first two transects and ‘good’ at the last two. The root mean square error of calculated bed levels is smaller than the uncertainty in the measurements, except at the last transect, where the M<inline-formula><math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="inline"><semantics><msub><mrow></mrow><mn>2</mn></msub></semantics></math></inline-formula> is more elliptical than at the other three transects. The calibrated model is subsequently used to make forecasts of the sand waves along the two transects with the best skill scores.
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spelling doaj.art-a39a24f26da94305b7f08391a86ea8d62023-11-22T18:45:03ZengMDPI AGJournal of Marine Science and Engineering2077-13122021-09-01910107110.3390/jmse9101071Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand WavesJanneke Krabbendam0Abdel Nnafie1Huib de Swart2Bas Borsje3Luitze Perk4Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Utrecht University, Princetonplein 5, 3584 CC Utrecht, The NetherlandsInstitute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Utrecht University, Princetonplein 5, 3584 CC Utrecht, The NetherlandsInstitute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Utrecht University, Princetonplein 5, 3584 CC Utrecht, The NetherlandsFaculty of Engineering Technology, Twente University, De Horst 2, 7522 LW Enschede, The NetherlandsWaterProof B.V., IJsselmeerdijk 2, 8221 RC Lelystad, The NetherlandsThis study focuses on the hindcasting and forecasting of observed offshore tidal sand waves by using a state-of-the-art numerical morphodynamic model. The sand waves, having heights of several meters, evolve on timescales of years. Following earlier work, the model has a 2DV configuration (one horizontal and one vertical direction). First, the skill of the model is assessed by performing hindcasts at four transects in the North Sea where sand wave data are available of multiple surveys that are at least 10 years apart. The first transect is used for calibration and this calibrated model is applied to the other three transects. It is found that the calibrated model performs well: the Brier Skill Score is ‘excellent’ at the first two transects and ‘good’ at the last two. The root mean square error of calculated bed levels is smaller than the uncertainty in the measurements, except at the last transect, where the M<inline-formula><math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="inline"><semantics><msub><mrow></mrow><mn>2</mn></msub></semantics></math></inline-formula> is more elliptical than at the other three transects. The calibrated model is subsequently used to make forecasts of the sand waves along the two transects with the best skill scores.https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/10/1071tidal sand wavesNorth SeaDelft3Dnumerical morphological modelling
spellingShingle Janneke Krabbendam
Abdel Nnafie
Huib de Swart
Bas Borsje
Luitze Perk
Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
tidal sand waves
North Sea
Delft3D
numerical morphological modelling
title Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves
title_full Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves
title_fullStr Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves
title_full_unstemmed Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves
title_short Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves
title_sort modelling the past and future evolution of tidal sand waves
topic tidal sand waves
North Sea
Delft3D
numerical morphological modelling
url https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/10/1071
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AT abdelnnafie modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves
AT huibdeswart modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves
AT basborsje modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves
AT luitzeperk modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves