Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves
This study focuses on the hindcasting and forecasting of observed offshore tidal sand waves by using a state-of-the-art numerical morphodynamic model. The sand waves, having heights of several meters, evolve on timescales of years. Following earlier work, the model has a 2DV configuration (one horiz...
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MDPI AG
2021-09-01
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Series: | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
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Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/10/1071 |
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author | Janneke Krabbendam Abdel Nnafie Huib de Swart Bas Borsje Luitze Perk |
author_facet | Janneke Krabbendam Abdel Nnafie Huib de Swart Bas Borsje Luitze Perk |
author_sort | Janneke Krabbendam |
collection | DOAJ |
description | This study focuses on the hindcasting and forecasting of observed offshore tidal sand waves by using a state-of-the-art numerical morphodynamic model. The sand waves, having heights of several meters, evolve on timescales of years. Following earlier work, the model has a 2DV configuration (one horizontal and one vertical direction). First, the skill of the model is assessed by performing hindcasts at four transects in the North Sea where sand wave data are available of multiple surveys that are at least 10 years apart. The first transect is used for calibration and this calibrated model is applied to the other three transects. It is found that the calibrated model performs well: the Brier Skill Score is ‘excellent’ at the first two transects and ‘good’ at the last two. The root mean square error of calculated bed levels is smaller than the uncertainty in the measurements, except at the last transect, where the M<inline-formula><math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="inline"><semantics><msub><mrow></mrow><mn>2</mn></msub></semantics></math></inline-formula> is more elliptical than at the other three transects. The calibrated model is subsequently used to make forecasts of the sand waves along the two transects with the best skill scores. |
first_indexed | 2024-03-10T06:28:07Z |
format | Article |
id | doaj.art-a39a24f26da94305b7f08391a86ea8d6 |
institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
issn | 2077-1312 |
language | English |
last_indexed | 2024-03-10T06:28:07Z |
publishDate | 2021-09-01 |
publisher | MDPI AG |
record_format | Article |
series | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
spelling | doaj.art-a39a24f26da94305b7f08391a86ea8d62023-11-22T18:45:03ZengMDPI AGJournal of Marine Science and Engineering2077-13122021-09-01910107110.3390/jmse9101071Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand WavesJanneke Krabbendam0Abdel Nnafie1Huib de Swart2Bas Borsje3Luitze Perk4Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Utrecht University, Princetonplein 5, 3584 CC Utrecht, The NetherlandsInstitute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Utrecht University, Princetonplein 5, 3584 CC Utrecht, The NetherlandsInstitute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Utrecht University, Princetonplein 5, 3584 CC Utrecht, The NetherlandsFaculty of Engineering Technology, Twente University, De Horst 2, 7522 LW Enschede, The NetherlandsWaterProof B.V., IJsselmeerdijk 2, 8221 RC Lelystad, The NetherlandsThis study focuses on the hindcasting and forecasting of observed offshore tidal sand waves by using a state-of-the-art numerical morphodynamic model. The sand waves, having heights of several meters, evolve on timescales of years. Following earlier work, the model has a 2DV configuration (one horizontal and one vertical direction). First, the skill of the model is assessed by performing hindcasts at four transects in the North Sea where sand wave data are available of multiple surveys that are at least 10 years apart. The first transect is used for calibration and this calibrated model is applied to the other three transects. It is found that the calibrated model performs well: the Brier Skill Score is ‘excellent’ at the first two transects and ‘good’ at the last two. The root mean square error of calculated bed levels is smaller than the uncertainty in the measurements, except at the last transect, where the M<inline-formula><math xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" display="inline"><semantics><msub><mrow></mrow><mn>2</mn></msub></semantics></math></inline-formula> is more elliptical than at the other three transects. The calibrated model is subsequently used to make forecasts of the sand waves along the two transects with the best skill scores.https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/10/1071tidal sand wavesNorth SeaDelft3Dnumerical morphological modelling |
spellingShingle | Janneke Krabbendam Abdel Nnafie Huib de Swart Bas Borsje Luitze Perk Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves Journal of Marine Science and Engineering tidal sand waves North Sea Delft3D numerical morphological modelling |
title | Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves |
title_full | Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves |
title_fullStr | Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves |
title_full_unstemmed | Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves |
title_short | Modelling the Past and Future Evolution of Tidal Sand Waves |
title_sort | modelling the past and future evolution of tidal sand waves |
topic | tidal sand waves North Sea Delft3D numerical morphological modelling |
url | https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/10/1071 |
work_keys_str_mv | AT jannekekrabbendam modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves AT abdelnnafie modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves AT huibdeswart modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves AT basborsje modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves AT luitzeperk modellingthepastandfutureevolutionoftidalsandwaves |