<i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two...
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
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MDPI AG
2022-10-01
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| Series: | International Journal of Molecular Sciences |
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| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/23/20/12507 |
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| author | Sandra Smiljanic Cyril Messaraa Virginie Lafon-Kolb Nina Hrapovic Nahid Amini Christina Osterlund Lene Visdal-Johnsen |
| author_facet | Sandra Smiljanic Cyril Messaraa Virginie Lafon-Kolb Nina Hrapovic Nahid Amini Christina Osterlund Lene Visdal-Johnsen |
| author_sort | Sandra Smiljanic |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: <i>Betula alba</i> (BA) and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. <i>Betula alba</i> increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration. |
| first_indexed | 2024-03-09T20:06:02Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-a5c4f44515c1443d94c4fd207db9b205 |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 1661-6596 1422-0067 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-03-09T20:06:02Z |
| publishDate | 2022-10-01 |
| publisher | MDPI AG |
| record_format | Article |
| series | International Journal of Molecular Sciences |
| spelling | doaj.art-a5c4f44515c1443d94c4fd207db9b2052023-11-24T00:32:44ZengMDPI AGInternational Journal of Molecular Sciences1661-65961422-00672022-10-0123201250710.3390/ijms232012507<i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier BenefitsSandra Smiljanic0Cyril Messaraa1Virginie Lafon-Kolb2Nina Hrapovic3Nahid Amini4Christina Osterlund5Lene Visdal-Johnsen6Oriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, SwedenOriflame Cosmetics, R&D Ltd., Bray Business Park, Kilruddery, A98 Y6W0 Bray, IrelandOriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, SwedenOriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, SwedenOriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, SwedenOriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, SwedenOriflame Cosmetics, Swedish Research & Innovation Lab, Fleminggatan 14, 112 26 Stockholm, SwedenThe Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: <i>Betula alba</i> (BA) and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. <i>Betula alba</i> increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/23/20/12507skin barrierhydrationScandinavian endemic plantsnatural ingredient<i>Betula alba</i><i>Empetrum nigrum</i> |
| spellingShingle | Sandra Smiljanic Cyril Messaraa Virginie Lafon-Kolb Nina Hrapovic Nahid Amini Christina Osterlund Lene Visdal-Johnsen <i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits International Journal of Molecular Sciences skin barrier hydration Scandinavian endemic plants natural ingredient <i>Betula alba</i> <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> |
| title | <i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
| title_full | <i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
| title_fullStr | <i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
| title_full_unstemmed | <i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
| title_short | <i>Betula alba</i> Bark Extract and <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
| title_sort | i betula alba i bark extract and i empetrum nigrum i fruit juice a natural alternative to niacinamide for skin barrier benefits |
| topic | skin barrier hydration Scandinavian endemic plants natural ingredient <i>Betula alba</i> <i>Empetrum nigrum</i> |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/23/20/12507 |
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