<i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations

The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction p...

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Main Authors: Patrícia Susano, Joana Silva, Celso Alves, Alice Martins, Susete Pinteus, Helena Gaspar, Márcia Inês Goettert, Rui Pedrosa
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2022-10-01
Series:Molecules
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/27/19/6496
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author Patrícia Susano
Joana Silva
Celso Alves
Alice Martins
Susete Pinteus
Helena Gaspar
Márcia Inês Goettert
Rui Pedrosa
author_facet Patrícia Susano
Joana Silva
Celso Alves
Alice Martins
Susete Pinteus
Helena Gaspar
Márcia Inês Goettert
Rui Pedrosa
author_sort Patrícia Susano
collection DOAJ
description The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed <i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (<i>Staphylococcus epidermidis</i>, <i>Cutibacterium acnes</i> and <i>Malassezia furfur</i>), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC<sub>50</sub> value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against <i>C. acnes</i> growth (IC<sub>50</sub> value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the <i>S. polyschides</i> fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of <i>S. polyschides</i> to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products.
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spelling doaj.art-aa129859f120431dae3c82b9cbf89c462023-11-23T21:12:21ZengMDPI AGMolecules1420-30492022-10-012719649610.3390/molecules27196496<i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare FormulationsPatrícia Susano0Joana Silva1Celso Alves2Alice Martins3Susete Pinteus4Helena Gaspar5Márcia Inês Goettert6Rui Pedrosa7MARE-Marine and Environmental Sciences Centre/ARNET-Aquatic Research Network, Polytechnic of Leiria, 2520-630 Peniche, PortugalMARE-Marine and Environmental Sciences Centre/ARNET-Aquatic Research Network, Polytechnic of Leiria, 2520-630 Peniche, PortugalMARE-Marine and Environmental Sciences Centre/ARNET-Aquatic Research Network, Polytechnic of Leiria, 2520-630 Peniche, PortugalMARE-Marine and Environmental Sciences Centre/ARNET-Aquatic Research Network, Polytechnic of Leiria, 2520-630 Peniche, PortugalMARE-Marine and Environmental Sciences Centre/ARNET-Aquatic Research Network, Polytechnic of Leiria, 2520-630 Peniche, PortugalMARE-Marine and Environmental Sciences Centre/ARNET-Aquatic Research Network, Polytechnic of Leiria, 2520-630 Peniche, PortugalCell Culture Laboratory, Postgraduate Programme in Biotechnology, University of Vale do Taquari-Univates, Lajeado 95914-014, RS, BrazilMARE/ARNET, ESTM, Polytechnic of Leiria, 2520-614 Peniche, PortugalThe growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed <i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (<i>Staphylococcus epidermidis</i>, <i>Cutibacterium acnes</i> and <i>Malassezia furfur</i>), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC<sub>50</sub> value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against <i>C. acnes</i> growth (IC<sub>50</sub> value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the <i>S. polyschides</i> fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of <i>S. polyschides</i> to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products.https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/27/19/6496bioactive compoundsbrown macroalgaedermatological potentialoxidative stressanti-inflammatory activity
spellingShingle Patrícia Susano
Joana Silva
Celso Alves
Alice Martins
Susete Pinteus
Helena Gaspar
Márcia Inês Goettert
Rui Pedrosa
<i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
Molecules
bioactive compounds
brown macroalgae
dermatological potential
oxidative stress
anti-inflammatory activity
title <i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_full <i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_fullStr <i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_full_unstemmed <i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_short <i>Saccorhiza polyschides</i>—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_sort i saccorhiza polyschides i a source of natural active ingredients for greener skincare formulations
topic bioactive compounds
brown macroalgae
dermatological potential
oxidative stress
anti-inflammatory activity
url https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/27/19/6496
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