Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation Optimization
The escalating consumer demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients poses distinct challenges, particularly concerning their stability within the final formulation. Although natural resources offer a pool of antioxidant molecules with diverse structures and polarities, achieving stabilization combin...
| Main Authors: | , , , , , , |
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
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MDPI AG
2024-01-01
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| Series: | Cosmetics |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/1/17 |
| _version_ | 1797298573021282304 |
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| author | Leslie Boudesocque-Delaye Iron Mike Ardeza Alexis Verger Roxane Grard Isabelle Théry-Koné Xavier Perse Emilie Munnier |
| author_facet | Leslie Boudesocque-Delaye Iron Mike Ardeza Alexis Verger Roxane Grard Isabelle Théry-Koné Xavier Perse Emilie Munnier |
| author_sort | Leslie Boudesocque-Delaye |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | The escalating consumer demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients poses distinct challenges, particularly concerning their stability within the final formulation. Although natural resources offer a pool of antioxidant molecules with diverse structures and polarities, achieving stabilization combined with a comprehensive antioxidant profile often proves incompatible with practical preformulation considerations. Notably, Calendula, which is rich in both polar (glycosylated flavonoids) and nonpolar (carotenoids) antioxidants, is a standout candidate. Nevertheless, the market lacks an ingredient embodying this diversity, primarily due to the limited polarity range of available usable solvents. Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) emerge as a promising solution. This study explores NaDES technology with the goal of developing a unique Calendula extract enriched in both polarities of antioxidants, a composition that is unattainable with traditional solvents. A screening of 12 NaDESs with varying polarities highlighted a NaDES based on betaine and glycerol as particularly effective, outperforming ethanol. Leveraging response surface methodology, an optimal mechanical stirring procedure for extraction was identified. The resulting extract showed a total flavonoid content of 45.42 ± 0.85 mg eq rutin/g of biomass and a total carotenoid content of 383.54 ± 4.73 µg/g biomass. It was then incorporated into a sustainable cream (1% and 10%wt) using an innovative mixing technology. The resulting creams demonstrated stability over 90 days, with no significant deviations in pH or rheological properties compared to the control, and a droplet size that was inferior to 10 µm. This study lays the foundation for pioneering natural antioxidant cocktail-loaded ingredients that are suitable for eco-friendly cosmetic formulations, substantiating the viability of integrating environmentally friendly ingredient-based solvents. |
| first_indexed | 2024-03-07T22:36:46Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-aeda77b4820b46569ce0796a3d590968 |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 2079-9284 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-03-07T22:36:46Z |
| publishDate | 2024-01-01 |
| publisher | MDPI AG |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Cosmetics |
| spelling | doaj.art-aeda77b4820b46569ce0796a3d5909682024-02-23T15:13:00ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842024-01-011111710.3390/cosmetics11010017Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation OptimizationLeslie Boudesocque-Delaye0Iron Mike Ardeza1Alexis Verger2Roxane Grard3Isabelle Théry-Koné4Xavier Perse5Emilie Munnier6EA 7502 SIMBA, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, FranceEA 7502 SIMBA, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, FranceUPR CNRS 4301 CBM, Département NMNS, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, FranceUPR CNRS 4301 CBM, Département NMNS, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, FranceEA 7502 SIMBA, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, FranceUPR CNRS 4301 CBM, Département NMNS, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, FranceUPR CNRS 4301 CBM, Département NMNS, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Tours, 31 Avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, FranceThe escalating consumer demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients poses distinct challenges, particularly concerning their stability within the final formulation. Although natural resources offer a pool of antioxidant molecules with diverse structures and polarities, achieving stabilization combined with a comprehensive antioxidant profile often proves incompatible with practical preformulation considerations. Notably, Calendula, which is rich in both polar (glycosylated flavonoids) and nonpolar (carotenoids) antioxidants, is a standout candidate. Nevertheless, the market lacks an ingredient embodying this diversity, primarily due to the limited polarity range of available usable solvents. Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) emerge as a promising solution. This study explores NaDES technology with the goal of developing a unique Calendula extract enriched in both polarities of antioxidants, a composition that is unattainable with traditional solvents. A screening of 12 NaDESs with varying polarities highlighted a NaDES based on betaine and glycerol as particularly effective, outperforming ethanol. Leveraging response surface methodology, an optimal mechanical stirring procedure for extraction was identified. The resulting extract showed a total flavonoid content of 45.42 ± 0.85 mg eq rutin/g of biomass and a total carotenoid content of 383.54 ± 4.73 µg/g biomass. It was then incorporated into a sustainable cream (1% and 10%wt) using an innovative mixing technology. The resulting creams demonstrated stability over 90 days, with no significant deviations in pH or rheological properties compared to the control, and a droplet size that was inferior to 10 µm. This study lays the foundation for pioneering natural antioxidant cocktail-loaded ingredients that are suitable for eco-friendly cosmetic formulations, substantiating the viability of integrating environmentally friendly ingredient-based solvents.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/1/17natural deep eutectic solventsantioxidantformulation<i>Calendula officinalis</i> |
| spellingShingle | Leslie Boudesocque-Delaye Iron Mike Ardeza Alexis Verger Roxane Grard Isabelle Théry-Koné Xavier Perse Emilie Munnier Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation Optimization Cosmetics natural deep eutectic solvents antioxidant formulation <i>Calendula officinalis</i> |
| title | Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation Optimization |
| title_full | Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation Optimization |
| title_fullStr | Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation Optimization |
| title_full_unstemmed | Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation Optimization |
| title_short | Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents as a Novel Bio-Based Matrix for Ready-to-Use Natural Antioxidants-Enriched Ingredients: Extraction and Formulation Optimization |
| title_sort | natural deep eutectic solvents as a novel bio based matrix for ready to use natural antioxidants enriched ingredients extraction and formulation optimization |
| topic | natural deep eutectic solvents antioxidant formulation <i>Calendula officinalis</i> |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/1/17 |
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