Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>

“Vegan” and “sustainable” characteristics are strong claim trends behind the development of innovative skincare, fragrances, and makeup products. This created a need in the market for compliant ingredients. To date, there have been no records evidencing the use of the microalgae <i>Neochloris...

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Main Authors: Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome, Bruna Bertoloni dos Santos, João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho, Tânia Santos de Almeida, Patrícia Rijo, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco, Catarina Rosado, André Rolim Baby
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2022-01-01
Series:Cosmetics
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/1/9
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author Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
Bruna Bertoloni dos Santos
João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho
Tânia Santos de Almeida
Patrícia Rijo
Maria Valéria Robles Velasco
Catarina Rosado
André Rolim Baby
author_facet Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
Bruna Bertoloni dos Santos
João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho
Tânia Santos de Almeida
Patrícia Rijo
Maria Valéria Robles Velasco
Catarina Rosado
André Rolim Baby
author_sort Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
collection DOAJ
description “Vegan” and “sustainable” characteristics are strong claim trends behind the development of innovative skincare, fragrances, and makeup products. This created a need in the market for compliant ingredients. To date, there have been no records evidencing the use of the microalgae <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i> (NA) in dermocosmetics. Therefore, we studied the applicability of such a natural compound in this context. NA was cultivated, and the scavenging activity (SA) of the NA extracts was evaluated. The highest SA was from the aqueous extract (54.8% ± 2.1%), being higher than that of the positive control. Two hydrogels were prepared with 1.0% ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer: (1) control gel; and (2) gel with a 1.0% NA aqueous extract. In vivo experiments were performed in healthy male and female volunteers with skin phototypes of II–IV. The <i>stratum corneum</i> (SC) hydration and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured in the forearm of participants to determine their biocompatibility. This parameter was determined by skin bioengineering measurements, confirming that SC hydration and TEWL were not affected by the samples. The laser Doppler measurements results showed a delayed erythema onset in the sites, where the NA hydrogel was applied. The results confirmed the biocompatibility and the anti-inflammatory activity of an innovative ingredient derived from microalgae suitable for a natural and vegan lifestyle.
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spelling doaj.art-b3282fcc01964fc1a46511d7eb90ed162023-11-23T19:22:59ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842022-01-0191910.3390/cosmetics9010009Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome0Bruna Bertoloni dos Santos1João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho2Tânia Santos de Almeida3Patrícia Rijo4Maria Valéria Robles Velasco5Catarina Rosado6André Rolim Baby7Pharmacy Department, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilPharmacy Department, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilBiochemical and Pharmaceutical Technology Department, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilCBIOS—Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, 1749-024 Lisboa, PortugalCBIOS—Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, 1749-024 Lisboa, PortugalPharmacy Department, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilCBIOS—Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, 1749-024 Lisboa, PortugalPharmacy Department, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, Brazil“Vegan” and “sustainable” characteristics are strong claim trends behind the development of innovative skincare, fragrances, and makeup products. This created a need in the market for compliant ingredients. To date, there have been no records evidencing the use of the microalgae <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i> (NA) in dermocosmetics. Therefore, we studied the applicability of such a natural compound in this context. NA was cultivated, and the scavenging activity (SA) of the NA extracts was evaluated. The highest SA was from the aqueous extract (54.8% ± 2.1%), being higher than that of the positive control. Two hydrogels were prepared with 1.0% ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer: (1) control gel; and (2) gel with a 1.0% NA aqueous extract. In vivo experiments were performed in healthy male and female volunteers with skin phototypes of II–IV. The <i>stratum corneum</i> (SC) hydration and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured in the forearm of participants to determine their biocompatibility. This parameter was determined by skin bioengineering measurements, confirming that SC hydration and TEWL were not affected by the samples. The laser Doppler measurements results showed a delayed erythema onset in the sites, where the NA hydrogel was applied. The results confirmed the biocompatibility and the anti-inflammatory activity of an innovative ingredient derived from microalgae suitable for a natural and vegan lifestyle.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/1/9biocompatibilityin vitro antioxidant activityin vivo anti-inflammatorylaser Doppler flowmetrymicroalgal biotechnologysafety testing
spellingShingle Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
Bruna Bertoloni dos Santos
João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho
Tânia Santos de Almeida
Patrícia Rijo
Maria Valéria Robles Velasco
Catarina Rosado
André Rolim Baby
Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>
Cosmetics
biocompatibility
in vitro antioxidant activity
in vivo anti-inflammatory
laser Doppler flowmetry
microalgal biotechnology
safety testing
title Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>
title_full Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>
title_fullStr Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>
title_full_unstemmed Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>
title_short Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of <i>Neochloris oleoabundans</i>
title_sort microalgae as a sustainable natural oriented and vegan dermocosmetic bioactive ingredient the case of i neochloris oleoabundans i
topic biocompatibility
in vitro antioxidant activity
in vivo anti-inflammatory
laser Doppler flowmetry
microalgal biotechnology
safety testing
url https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/1/9
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