Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure study

Background: The skin lightening industry has seen exponential growth in India. Consumers often present to the dermatologist with adverse cutaneous reactions to these 'fairness' (skin lightening) creams. The composition of these creams has not received sufficient attention. Objective: To id...

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Main Authors: Hima Gopinath, Bodicharla Manjula, Kaliaperumal Karthikeyan
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Wolters Kluwer Medknow Publications 2021-01-01
Series:Indian Journal of Dermatology
Subjects:
Online Access:http://www.e-ijd.org/article.asp?issn=0019-5154;year=2021;volume=66;issue=3;spage=279;epage=283;aulast=Gopinath
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author Hima Gopinath
Bodicharla Manjula
Kaliaperumal Karthikeyan
author_facet Hima Gopinath
Bodicharla Manjula
Kaliaperumal Karthikeyan
author_sort Hima Gopinath
collection DOAJ
description Background: The skin lightening industry has seen exponential growth in India. Consumers often present to the dermatologist with adverse cutaneous reactions to these 'fairness' (skin lightening) creams. The composition of these creams has not received sufficient attention. Objective: To identify fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens in the bestseller 'fairness' creams available in the Indian market. Methods: Twenty fairness (or whitening or lightening) creams were selected based on the 'bestseller' creams of one of the largest electronic commerce websites in India, and availability in local stores and unlabelled brands were excluded. Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens were identified from the ingredient labels. Results: Twenty bestseller fairness creams were included. The number of the listed ingredients in the fairness creams ranged from 6 to 49 (mean = 32.2). The most frequently listed ingredients included water, fragrance or parfum, glycerin, tocopherol/tocopherylacetate and titanium dioxide. Hydroquinone, monobenzyl hydroquinone, corticosteroids, tretinoin and mercury were not listed in any of the creams. Unspecified fragrance was listed in 19 (95%) creams and linalool (8,40%) was the most frequent specified fragrance. Titanium dioxide (14, 70 %) was the most common inorganic sunscreen and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (12 creams or 60% of creams) was the most common organic sunscreen. Twenty-seven botanicals were identified. Eight ingredients were potential allergens according to the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. The cost of the creams ranged from 95 to 1,095 in Indian rupees (mean 300.5). Conclusions: Consumers are exposed to a vast range of compounds in the quest for a lighter skin tone. Several potential allergens, particularly fragrance allergens, are present in addition to the eight allergens that were identified with the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. Increased awareness of the composition of skin lightening creams available in the market and strict regulation of these creams is needed.
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spelling doaj.art-b5272ce16de04eaf8d7b12e9740653862022-12-21T18:49:33ZengWolters Kluwer Medknow PublicationsIndian Journal of Dermatology0019-51541998-36112021-01-0166327928310.4103/ijd.IJD_500_19Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure studyHima GopinathBodicharla ManjulaKaliaperumal KarthikeyanBackground: The skin lightening industry has seen exponential growth in India. Consumers often present to the dermatologist with adverse cutaneous reactions to these 'fairness' (skin lightening) creams. The composition of these creams has not received sufficient attention. Objective: To identify fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens in the bestseller 'fairness' creams available in the Indian market. Methods: Twenty fairness (or whitening or lightening) creams were selected based on the 'bestseller' creams of one of the largest electronic commerce websites in India, and availability in local stores and unlabelled brands were excluded. Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens were identified from the ingredient labels. Results: Twenty bestseller fairness creams were included. The number of the listed ingredients in the fairness creams ranged from 6 to 49 (mean = 32.2). The most frequently listed ingredients included water, fragrance or parfum, glycerin, tocopherol/tocopherylacetate and titanium dioxide. Hydroquinone, monobenzyl hydroquinone, corticosteroids, tretinoin and mercury were not listed in any of the creams. Unspecified fragrance was listed in 19 (95%) creams and linalool (8,40%) was the most frequent specified fragrance. Titanium dioxide (14, 70 %) was the most common inorganic sunscreen and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (12 creams or 60% of creams) was the most common organic sunscreen. Twenty-seven botanicals were identified. Eight ingredients were potential allergens according to the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. The cost of the creams ranged from 95 to 1,095 in Indian rupees (mean 300.5). Conclusions: Consumers are exposed to a vast range of compounds in the quest for a lighter skin tone. Several potential allergens, particularly fragrance allergens, are present in addition to the eight allergens that were identified with the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. Increased awareness of the composition of skin lightening creams available in the market and strict regulation of these creams is needed.http://www.e-ijd.org/article.asp?issn=0019-5154;year=2021;volume=66;issue=3;spage=279;epage=283;aulast=Gopinathcontact dermatitiscosmetic dermatologycosmetic ingredientscosmetic
spellingShingle Hima Gopinath
Bodicharla Manjula
Kaliaperumal Karthikeyan
Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure study
Indian Journal of Dermatology
contact dermatitis
cosmetic dermatology
cosmetic ingredients
cosmetic
title Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure study
title_full Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure study
title_fullStr Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure study
title_full_unstemmed Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure study
title_short Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals, and potential allergens in bestseller 'fairness' creams in the indian market: A consumer exposure study
title_sort fragrance sunscreens botanicals and potential allergens in bestseller fairness creams in the indian market a consumer exposure study
topic contact dermatitis
cosmetic dermatology
cosmetic ingredients
cosmetic
url http://www.e-ijd.org/article.asp?issn=0019-5154;year=2021;volume=66;issue=3;spage=279;epage=283;aulast=Gopinath
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AT kaliaperumalkarthikeyan fragrancesunscreensbotanicalsandpotentialallergensinbestsellerfairnesscreamsintheindianmarketaconsumerexposurestudy