National ornament and the imperial masquerade

Review of Rebecca Houze, Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria–Hungary before the First World War: Principles of Dress: Rebecca Houze’s book is a thoroughly researched and original study of the impact of design reform on textile production and fashion in Austria-Hungary in the late ninetee...

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Main Author: Nóra Veszprémi
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Department of Art History, University of Birmingham 2015-12-01
Series:Journal of Art Historiography
Subjects:
Online Access:https://arthistoriography.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/veszpremi-review1.pdf
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author Nóra Veszprémi
author_facet Nóra Veszprémi
author_sort Nóra Veszprémi
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description Review of Rebecca Houze, Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria–Hungary before the First World War: Principles of Dress: Rebecca Houze’s book is a thoroughly researched and original study of the impact of design reform on textile production and fashion in Austria-Hungary in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century which centres its argument around the Bekleidungsprinzip (“principle of dress”) put forward by Gottfried Semper. It discusses the role of newly founded applied arts museums, industrial exhibitions, the concept of “house industry,” and the upsurge of interest in folk crafts in this process, while also placing a strong emphasis on the role of women as producers of textiles. One of the main virtues of the book is its wide scope which manages to investigate endeavours informed by different and sometimes opposed national and imperial interests in their complicated interconnectedness. It is a pity that this broad perspective is narrowed down in the second part of the book which focuses on with turn-of-the-century Vienna and does not deal with modernist tendencies in Hungarian design. Nevertheless, this part of the book also provides a fascinating discussion of its own subject, and the monograph as a whole is a valuable contribution to its field of study.
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spelling doaj.art-b7442fb879df497d9ebc68cc0970cad52022-12-21T18:50:00ZengDepartment of Art History, University of BirminghamJournal of Art Historiography2042-47522015-12-011313NV1National ornament and the imperial masqueradeNóra Veszprémi0BirminghamReview of Rebecca Houze, Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria–Hungary before the First World War: Principles of Dress: Rebecca Houze’s book is a thoroughly researched and original study of the impact of design reform on textile production and fashion in Austria-Hungary in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century which centres its argument around the Bekleidungsprinzip (“principle of dress”) put forward by Gottfried Semper. It discusses the role of newly founded applied arts museums, industrial exhibitions, the concept of “house industry,” and the upsurge of interest in folk crafts in this process, while also placing a strong emphasis on the role of women as producers of textiles. One of the main virtues of the book is its wide scope which manages to investigate endeavours informed by different and sometimes opposed national and imperial interests in their complicated interconnectedness. It is a pity that this broad perspective is narrowed down in the second part of the book which focuses on with turn-of-the-century Vienna and does not deal with modernist tendencies in Hungarian design. Nevertheless, this part of the book also provides a fascinating discussion of its own subject, and the monograph as a whole is a valuable contribution to its field of study.https://arthistoriography.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/veszpremi-review1.pdfAustria-Hungarydesign reformapplied artsdesign museumsfashionGottfried Semperfolk culture
spellingShingle Nóra Veszprémi
National ornament and the imperial masquerade
Journal of Art Historiography
Austria-Hungary
design reform
applied arts
design museums
fashion
Gottfried Semper
folk culture
title National ornament and the imperial masquerade
title_full National ornament and the imperial masquerade
title_fullStr National ornament and the imperial masquerade
title_full_unstemmed National ornament and the imperial masquerade
title_short National ornament and the imperial masquerade
title_sort national ornament and the imperial masquerade
topic Austria-Hungary
design reform
applied arts
design museums
fashion
Gottfried Semper
folk culture
url https://arthistoriography.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/veszpremi-review1.pdf
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