Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model

The nutritional and health properties of algae make them perfect functional ingredients for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In this study, the <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin (Phaeodactylaceae), a pleiomorphic diatom commonly found in marine ecosystems, was investig...

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Main Authors: Antonella Smeriglio, Joseph Lionti, Mariarosaria Ingegneri, Bruno Burlando, Laura Cornara, Federica Grillo, Luca Mastracci, Domenico Trombetta
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2023-05-01
Series:Molecules
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/28/10/4190
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author Antonella Smeriglio
Joseph Lionti
Mariarosaria Ingegneri
Bruno Burlando
Laura Cornara
Federica Grillo
Luca Mastracci
Domenico Trombetta
author_facet Antonella Smeriglio
Joseph Lionti
Mariarosaria Ingegneri
Bruno Burlando
Laura Cornara
Federica Grillo
Luca Mastracci
Domenico Trombetta
author_sort Antonella Smeriglio
collection DOAJ
description The nutritional and health properties of algae make them perfect functional ingredients for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In this study, the <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin (Phaeodactylaceae), a pleiomorphic diatom commonly found in marine ecosystems, was investigated. The in vitro culture conditions used favoured the fusiform morphotype, characterized by a high accumulation of neutral lipids, as detected by fluorescence microscopy after BODIPY staining. These data were confirmed by HPLC-DAD-APCI-MS/MS analyses carried out on the ethanolic extract (PTE), which showed a high content of xanthophylls (98.99%), and in particular of fucoxanthin (Fx, 6.67 g/100 g PTE). The antioxidant activity (ORAC, FRAP, TEAC and β-carotene bleaching) and photostability of PTE and Fx against UVA and UVB rays were firstly evaluated by in vitro cell-free assays. After this, phototoxicity and photoprotective studies were carried out on in vitro reconstructed human epidermidis models. Results demonstrated that PTE (0.1% Fx) and 0.1% Fx, both photostable, significantly (<i>p</i> < 0.05) reduce oxidative and inflammatory stress markers (ROS, NO and IL-1α), as well as cytotoxicity and sunburn cells induced by UVA and UVB doses simulating the solar radiation, with an excellent safety profile. However, PTE proved to be more effective than Fx, suggesting its effective and safe use in broad-spectrum sunscreens.
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spelling doaj.art-c7b95065a67f46f8bf8442d8edd9e2df2023-11-18T02:40:37ZengMDPI AGMolecules1420-30492023-05-012810419010.3390/molecules28104190Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis ModelAntonella Smeriglio0Joseph Lionti1Mariarosaria Ingegneri2Bruno Burlando3Laura Cornara4Federica Grillo5Luca Mastracci6Domenico Trombetta7Department of Chemical, Biological, Pharmaceutical and Environmental Sciences (ChiBioFarAm), University of Messina, Viale Ferdinando Stagno d’Alcontres 31, 98166 Messina, ItalyArchimede Ricerche Srl, Corso Italia 220, 18033 Camporosso, ItalyDepartment of Chemical, Biological, Pharmaceutical and Environmental Sciences (ChiBioFarAm), University of Messina, Viale Ferdinando Stagno d’Alcontres 31, 98166 Messina, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy—DIFAR, University of Genova, Viale Benedetto XV 3, 16132 Genova, ItalyDepartment of Earth, Environment and Life Sciences (DISTAV), University of Genova, Corso Europa 26, 16132 Genova, ItalyPathology Unit, Department of Surgical Sciences and Integrated Diagnostics (DISC), University of Genova, 16132 Genova, ItalyPathology Unit, Department of Surgical Sciences and Integrated Diagnostics (DISC), University of Genova, 16132 Genova, ItalyDepartment of Chemical, Biological, Pharmaceutical and Environmental Sciences (ChiBioFarAm), University of Messina, Viale Ferdinando Stagno d’Alcontres 31, 98166 Messina, ItalyThe nutritional and health properties of algae make them perfect functional ingredients for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In this study, the <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin (Phaeodactylaceae), a pleiomorphic diatom commonly found in marine ecosystems, was investigated. The in vitro culture conditions used favoured the fusiform morphotype, characterized by a high accumulation of neutral lipids, as detected by fluorescence microscopy after BODIPY staining. These data were confirmed by HPLC-DAD-APCI-MS/MS analyses carried out on the ethanolic extract (PTE), which showed a high content of xanthophylls (98.99%), and in particular of fucoxanthin (Fx, 6.67 g/100 g PTE). The antioxidant activity (ORAC, FRAP, TEAC and β-carotene bleaching) and photostability of PTE and Fx against UVA and UVB rays were firstly evaluated by in vitro cell-free assays. After this, phototoxicity and photoprotective studies were carried out on in vitro reconstructed human epidermidis models. Results demonstrated that PTE (0.1% Fx) and 0.1% Fx, both photostable, significantly (<i>p</i> < 0.05) reduce oxidative and inflammatory stress markers (ROS, NO and IL-1α), as well as cytotoxicity and sunburn cells induced by UVA and UVB doses simulating the solar radiation, with an excellent safety profile. However, PTE proved to be more effective than Fx, suggesting its effective and safe use in broad-spectrum sunscreens.https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/28/10/4190microalgae<i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> bohlinmicroscopyphytochemical analysiscarotenoidsfucoxanthin
spellingShingle Antonella Smeriglio
Joseph Lionti
Mariarosaria Ingegneri
Bruno Burlando
Laura Cornara
Federica Grillo
Luca Mastracci
Domenico Trombetta
Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model
Molecules
microalgae
<i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> bohlin
microscopy
phytochemical analysis
carotenoids
fucoxanthin
title Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model
title_full Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model
title_fullStr Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model
title_full_unstemmed Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model
title_short Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of <i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model
title_sort xanthophyll rich extract of i phaeodactylum tricornutum i bohlin as new photoprotective cosmeceutical agent safety and efficacy assessment on in vitro reconstructed human epidermis model
topic microalgae
<i>Phaeodactylum tricornutum</i> bohlin
microscopy
phytochemical analysis
carotenoids
fucoxanthin
url https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/28/10/4190
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