Licorice (<i>Glycyrrhiza glabra</i>, <i>G. uralensis</i>, and <i>G. inflata</i>) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. <i>Glycyrrhiza</i> genus, belonging to...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Antonietta Cerulli, Milena Masullo, Paola Montoro, Sonia Piacente
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2022-01-01
Series:Cosmetics
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/1/7
Description
Summary:The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. <i>Glycyrrhiza</i> genus, belonging to the <i>Leguminosae</i> family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. <i>Glycyrrhiza</i> spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of <i>Glycyrrhiza</i> extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated <i>Glycyrrhiza</i> spp. (<i>G. glabra</i>, <i>G. uralensis</i>, and <i>G. inflata</i>) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with <i>Glycyrrhiza</i> extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.
ISSN:2079-9284