Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas

This paper presents an analysis of the distributions of nonlinear crests, troughs and heights of deep water waves from mixed following sea states generated mechanically in an offshore basin and compares with previous results for mixed crossing seas from the same experiment. The random signals at the...

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Main Authors: P. G. Petrova, C. Guedes Soares
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Copernicus Publications 2014-05-01
Series:Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
Online Access:http://www.nat-hazards-earth-syst-sci.net/14/1207/2014/nhess-14-1207-2014.pdf
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author P. G. Petrova
C. Guedes Soares
author_facet P. G. Petrova
C. Guedes Soares
author_sort P. G. Petrova
collection DOAJ
description This paper presents an analysis of the distributions of nonlinear crests, troughs and heights of deep water waves from mixed following sea states generated mechanically in an offshore basin and compares with previous results for mixed crossing seas from the same experiment. The random signals at the wavemaker in both types of mixed seas are characterized by bimodal spectra following the model of Guedes Soares (1984). In agreement with the Benjamin–Feir mechanism, the high-frequency spectrum shows a decrease in the peak magnitude and downshift of the peak with the distance, as well as reduction of the tail. The observed statistics and probabilistic distributions exhibit, in general, increasing effects of third-order nonlinearity with the distance from the wavemaker. However, this effect is less pronounced in the wave systems with two following wave trains than in the crossing seas, given that they have identical initial characteristics of the bimodal spectra. The relevance of third-order effects due to free modes only is demonstrated and assessed by excluding the vertically asymmetric distortions induced by bound wave effects of second and third order. The fact that for records characterized by relatively large coefficient of kurtosis, the empirical distributions for the non-skewed profiles continue deviating from the linear predictions, corroborate the relevance of free wave interactions and thus the need of using higher-order models for the description of wave data.
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spelling doaj.art-c9f7dcafd67642808fb135c5b2dfdd532022-12-22T03:22:48ZengCopernicus PublicationsNatural Hazards and Earth System Sciences1561-86331684-99812014-05-011451207122210.5194/nhess-14-1207-2014Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seasP. G. Petrova0C. Guedes Soares1Centre for Marine Technology and Engineering (CENTEC), Instituto Superior Técnico, Universidade de Lisboa, 1049-001 Lisbon, PortugalCentre for Marine Technology and Engineering (CENTEC), Instituto Superior Técnico, Universidade de Lisboa, 1049-001 Lisbon, PortugalThis paper presents an analysis of the distributions of nonlinear crests, troughs and heights of deep water waves from mixed following sea states generated mechanically in an offshore basin and compares with previous results for mixed crossing seas from the same experiment. The random signals at the wavemaker in both types of mixed seas are characterized by bimodal spectra following the model of Guedes Soares (1984). In agreement with the Benjamin–Feir mechanism, the high-frequency spectrum shows a decrease in the peak magnitude and downshift of the peak with the distance, as well as reduction of the tail. The observed statistics and probabilistic distributions exhibit, in general, increasing effects of third-order nonlinearity with the distance from the wavemaker. However, this effect is less pronounced in the wave systems with two following wave trains than in the crossing seas, given that they have identical initial characteristics of the bimodal spectra. The relevance of third-order effects due to free modes only is demonstrated and assessed by excluding the vertically asymmetric distortions induced by bound wave effects of second and third order. The fact that for records characterized by relatively large coefficient of kurtosis, the empirical distributions for the non-skewed profiles continue deviating from the linear predictions, corroborate the relevance of free wave interactions and thus the need of using higher-order models for the description of wave data.http://www.nat-hazards-earth-syst-sci.net/14/1207/2014/nhess-14-1207-2014.pdf
spellingShingle P. G. Petrova
C. Guedes Soares
Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas
Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
title Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas
title_full Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas
title_fullStr Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas
title_full_unstemmed Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas
title_short Distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas
title_sort distributions of nonlinear wave amplitudes and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas
url http://www.nat-hazards-earth-syst-sci.net/14/1207/2014/nhess-14-1207-2014.pdf
work_keys_str_mv AT pgpetrova distributionsofnonlinearwaveamplitudesandheightsfromlaboratorygeneratedfollowingandcrossingbimodalseas
AT cguedessoares distributionsofnonlinearwaveamplitudesandheightsfromlaboratorygeneratedfollowingandcrossingbimodalseas