Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records
In coastal zones, the accurate calculation of orbital particle velocities from surface wave measurements is quite important for estimating sediment transport, which is essentially controlled by the near-bottom velocity field. The main difficulty in obtaining orbital velocities from surface wave prof...
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
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MDPI AG
2023-07-01
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| Series: | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
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| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/11/8/1479 |
| _version_ | 1797584299465113600 |
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| author | Yana Saprykina Sergey Kuznetsov Burak Aydogan Berna Ayat Margarita Shtremel |
| author_facet | Yana Saprykina Sergey Kuznetsov Burak Aydogan Berna Ayat Margarita Shtremel |
| author_sort | Yana Saprykina |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | In coastal zones, the accurate calculation of orbital particle velocities from surface wave measurements is quite important for estimating sediment transport, which is essentially controlled by the near-bottom velocity field. The main difficulty in obtaining orbital velocities from surface wave profiles is associated with the simultaneous existence of free and bound waves of the second harmonic with the same frequencies but different wave numbers. In a laboratory experiment, a discrepancy between the orbital velocities measured at different depths and the velocities obtained from synchronous wave records with the widely used transfer function of the linear theory was shown. The main reason for this was the different attenuations of free and bound waves with depth. Modeling with high spatial resolution made it possible to separate the free and bound waves and confirm this finding. It was found that free wave amplitudes decay with depth in exact accordance with the linear theory, while bound wave amplitudes decay much faster than the linear wave and Stokes theories predict. This difference and the unknown law of bound waves’ attenuation can lead to the inference of inaccurate orbital velocities from free surface elevations. |
| first_indexed | 2024-03-10T23:49:52Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-d31ded602b274f168ed9c96c295f27ef |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 2077-1312 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-03-10T23:49:52Z |
| publishDate | 2023-07-01 |
| publisher | MDPI AG |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
| spelling | doaj.art-d31ded602b274f168ed9c96c295f27ef2023-11-19T01:44:35ZengMDPI AGJournal of Marine Science and Engineering2077-13122023-07-01118147910.3390/jmse11081479Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave RecordsYana Saprykina0Sergey Kuznetsov1Burak Aydogan2Berna Ayat3Margarita Shtremel4Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nakhimovskiy Prospekt 36, Moscow 117997, RussiaShirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nakhimovskiy Prospekt 36, Moscow 117997, RussiaDepartment of Civil Engineering, Gebze Technical University, Kocaeli 41400, TurkeyDepartment of Civil Engineering, Yildiz Technical University, Esenler, Istanbul 34220, TurkeyShirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nakhimovskiy Prospekt 36, Moscow 117997, RussiaIn coastal zones, the accurate calculation of orbital particle velocities from surface wave measurements is quite important for estimating sediment transport, which is essentially controlled by the near-bottom velocity field. The main difficulty in obtaining orbital velocities from surface wave profiles is associated with the simultaneous existence of free and bound waves of the second harmonic with the same frequencies but different wave numbers. In a laboratory experiment, a discrepancy between the orbital velocities measured at different depths and the velocities obtained from synchronous wave records with the widely used transfer function of the linear theory was shown. The main reason for this was the different attenuations of free and bound waves with depth. Modeling with high spatial resolution made it possible to separate the free and bound waves and confirm this finding. It was found that free wave amplitudes decay with depth in exact accordance with the linear theory, while bound wave amplitudes decay much faster than the linear wave and Stokes theories predict. This difference and the unknown law of bound waves’ attenuation can lead to the inference of inaccurate orbital velocities from free surface elevations.https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/11/8/1479nonlinear wavesorbital velocitydamping of wave motion at depthfree and bound waveswaves at intermediate depthlaboratory and numerical experiments |
| spellingShingle | Yana Saprykina Sergey Kuznetsov Burak Aydogan Berna Ayat Margarita Shtremel Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records Journal of Marine Science and Engineering nonlinear waves orbital velocity damping of wave motion at depth free and bound waves waves at intermediate depth laboratory and numerical experiments |
| title | Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records |
| title_full | Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records |
| title_fullStr | Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records |
| title_full_unstemmed | Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records |
| title_short | Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records |
| title_sort | differing aspects of free and bound waves in obtaining orbital velocities from surface wave records |
| topic | nonlinear waves orbital velocity damping of wave motion at depth free and bound waves waves at intermediate depth laboratory and numerical experiments |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/11/8/1479 |
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