Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves
The nonlinear transformation of waves in the coastal zone over the sloping bottom is considered on the base of field, laboratory, and numerical experiments by methods of spectral and wavelet analyses. The nonlinearity leads to substantial changes of wave shape during its propagation to the shore. Si...
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
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MDPI AG
2021-10-01
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| Series: | Fluids |
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| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2311-5521/6/10/347 |
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| author | Sergey Kuznetsov Yana Saprykina |
| author_facet | Sergey Kuznetsov Yana Saprykina |
| author_sort | Sergey Kuznetsov |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | The nonlinear transformation of waves in the coastal zone over the sloping bottom is considered on the base of field, laboratory, and numerical experiments by methods of spectral and wavelet analyses. The nonlinearity leads to substantial changes of wave shape during its propagation to the shore. Since these changes occur rapidly, the wave movement is non-periodical in space, and the application of linear theory concepts of wavenumber or wavelength results in some paradoxical phenomena. When analyzing the spatial evolution of waves in the frequency domain, the effect of periodic energy exchange and changes in the phase shift between the first and second wave harmonics are observed. When considering the wavenumber domain, the free and bound waves of both the first and second harmonics with constant in space amplitudes appear, and all spatial fluctuations of the wave parameters are caused by interference of these four harmonics. Practically important consequences such as the wave energy spatial fluctuations and of anomalous dispersion of the second harmonic are shown and discussed. |
| first_indexed | 2024-03-10T06:35:06Z |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj.art-d609f95cd73e4a918bbcef31f076607c |
| institution | Directory Open Access Journal |
| issn | 2311-5521 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-03-10T06:35:06Z |
| publishDate | 2021-10-01 |
| publisher | MDPI AG |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Fluids |
| spelling | doaj.art-d609f95cd73e4a918bbcef31f076607c2023-11-22T18:12:31ZengMDPI AGFluids2311-55212021-10-0161034710.3390/fluids6100347Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound WavesSergey Kuznetsov0Yana Saprykina1Shirshov Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Sciences, 36, Nahimovskiy Prospekt, Moscow 117997, RussiaShirshov Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Sciences, 36, Nahimovskiy Prospekt, Moscow 117997, RussiaThe nonlinear transformation of waves in the coastal zone over the sloping bottom is considered on the base of field, laboratory, and numerical experiments by methods of spectral and wavelet analyses. The nonlinearity leads to substantial changes of wave shape during its propagation to the shore. Since these changes occur rapidly, the wave movement is non-periodical in space, and the application of linear theory concepts of wavenumber or wavelength results in some paradoxical phenomena. When analyzing the spatial evolution of waves in the frequency domain, the effect of periodic energy exchange and changes in the phase shift between the first and second wave harmonics are observed. When considering the wavenumber domain, the free and bound waves of both the first and second harmonics with constant in space amplitudes appear, and all spatial fluctuations of the wave parameters are caused by interference of these four harmonics. Practically important consequences such as the wave energy spatial fluctuations and of anomalous dispersion of the second harmonic are shown and discussed.https://www.mdpi.com/2311-5521/6/10/347nonlinear wave transformationintermediate water depthfree and bound waves |
| spellingShingle | Sergey Kuznetsov Yana Saprykina Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves Fluids nonlinear wave transformation intermediate water depth free and bound waves |
| title | Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves |
| title_full | Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves |
| title_fullStr | Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves |
| title_full_unstemmed | Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves |
| title_short | Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves |
| title_sort | nonlinear wave transformation in coastal zone free and bound waves |
| topic | nonlinear wave transformation intermediate water depth free and bound waves |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/2311-5521/6/10/347 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT sergeykuznetsov nonlinearwavetransformationincoastalzonefreeandboundwaves AT yanasaprykina nonlinearwavetransformationincoastalzonefreeandboundwaves |