Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses

Abstract The analysis of extreme wave conditions is crucial for understanding and mitigating coastal hazards. As global wave reanalyses allow to extend the evaluation of wave conditions to periods and locations not covered by in-situ measurements, their direct use is common. However, in coastal area...

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Main Authors: Valeria Fanti, Óscar Ferreira, Vincent Kümmerer, Carlos Loureiro
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Nature Portfolio 2023-05-01
Series:Communications Earth & Environment
Online Access:https://doi.org/10.1038/s43247-023-00819-0
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author Valeria Fanti
Óscar Ferreira
Vincent Kümmerer
Carlos Loureiro
author_facet Valeria Fanti
Óscar Ferreira
Vincent Kümmerer
Carlos Loureiro
author_sort Valeria Fanti
collection DOAJ
description Abstract The analysis of extreme wave conditions is crucial for understanding and mitigating coastal hazards. As global wave reanalyses allow to extend the evaluation of wave conditions to periods and locations not covered by in-situ measurements, their direct use is common. However, in coastal areas, the accuracy of global reanalyses is lower, particularly for extreme waves. Here we compare two leading global wave reanalyses against 326 coastal buoys, demonstrating that both reanalyses consistently underestimate significant wave height, 50-year return period and mean wave period in most coastal locations around the world. Different calibration methods applied to improve the modelled extreme waves, resulting in a 53% reduction in the underestimation of extreme wave heights. Importantly, the 50-year return period for significant wave height is improved on average by 55%. Extreme wave statistics determined for coastal areas directly from global wave reanalyses require careful consideration, with calibration largely reducing uncertainty and improving confidence.
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spelling doaj.art-f29744e5c7f442c8a58078aa337808012023-05-07T11:25:09ZengNature PortfolioCommunications Earth & Environment2662-44352023-05-014111110.1038/s43247-023-00819-0Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalysesValeria Fanti0Óscar Ferreira1Vincent Kümmerer2Carlos Loureiro3Centre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA/ARNET), Universidade do AlgarveCentre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA/ARNET), Universidade do AlgarveCentre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA/ARNET), Universidade do AlgarveCentre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA/ARNET), Universidade do AlgarveAbstract The analysis of extreme wave conditions is crucial for understanding and mitigating coastal hazards. As global wave reanalyses allow to extend the evaluation of wave conditions to periods and locations not covered by in-situ measurements, their direct use is common. However, in coastal areas, the accuracy of global reanalyses is lower, particularly for extreme waves. Here we compare two leading global wave reanalyses against 326 coastal buoys, demonstrating that both reanalyses consistently underestimate significant wave height, 50-year return period and mean wave period in most coastal locations around the world. Different calibration methods applied to improve the modelled extreme waves, resulting in a 53% reduction in the underestimation of extreme wave heights. Importantly, the 50-year return period for significant wave height is improved on average by 55%. Extreme wave statistics determined for coastal areas directly from global wave reanalyses require careful consideration, with calibration largely reducing uncertainty and improving confidence.https://doi.org/10.1038/s43247-023-00819-0
spellingShingle Valeria Fanti
Óscar Ferreira
Vincent Kümmerer
Carlos Loureiro
Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses
Communications Earth & Environment
title Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses
title_full Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses
title_fullStr Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses
title_full_unstemmed Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses
title_short Improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses
title_sort improved estimates of extreme wave conditions in coastal areas from calibrated global reanalyses
url https://doi.org/10.1038/s43247-023-00819-0
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AT oscarferreira improvedestimatesofextremewaveconditionsincoastalareasfromcalibratedglobalreanalyses
AT vincentkummerer improvedestimatesofextremewaveconditionsincoastalareasfromcalibratedglobalreanalyses
AT carlosloureiro improvedestimatesofextremewaveconditionsincoastalareasfromcalibratedglobalreanalyses