Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in Zhejiang

At a farm-to-table restaurant in Hangzhou, Zhejiang, high-quality food is sourced through direct relationships between restaurant staff and trusted rural suppliers. The restaurant is part of China’s growing food movement, and it shares this core principle of direct purchasing with other movement pro...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Author: Caroline Merrifield
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: SAGE Publishing 2019-12-01
Series:Journal of Current Chinese Affairs
Online Access:https://doi.org/10.1177/1868102620920124
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author Caroline Merrifield
author_facet Caroline Merrifield
author_sort Caroline Merrifield
collection DOAJ
description At a farm-to-table restaurant in Hangzhou, Zhejiang, high-quality food is sourced through direct relationships between restaurant staff and trusted rural suppliers. The restaurant is part of China’s growing food movement, and it shares this core principle of direct purchasing with other movement projects nationwide. At the same time, as the state responds to public anxieties over food safety, it has taken a “transparency” approach, emphasising “traceability” from field to tongue. Although such an approach may seem to follow similar logic to direct purchasing in the food movement, these two ways of pursuing safety are radically distinct. Drawing on evidence from the Hangzhou restaurant’s procurement system and Zhejiang’s “Sunshine Kitchen” food safety policies, I find that state responses to the food safety crisis misrecognise underlying moral-economic problems. By contrast, the restaurant’s farm-to-table purchasing system holds out a compelling model for (re)fashioning forms of moral consensus between growers and eaters of food.
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spelling doaj.art-f4ecc1823c1c4449801b46fab92265132022-12-21T19:39:02ZengSAGE PublishingJournal of Current Chinese Affairs1868-10261868-48742019-12-014810.1177/1868102620920124Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in ZhejiangCaroline Merrifield0 Independent scholar, San Diego, CA, USAAt a farm-to-table restaurant in Hangzhou, Zhejiang, high-quality food is sourced through direct relationships between restaurant staff and trusted rural suppliers. The restaurant is part of China’s growing food movement, and it shares this core principle of direct purchasing with other movement projects nationwide. At the same time, as the state responds to public anxieties over food safety, it has taken a “transparency” approach, emphasising “traceability” from field to tongue. Although such an approach may seem to follow similar logic to direct purchasing in the food movement, these two ways of pursuing safety are radically distinct. Drawing on evidence from the Hangzhou restaurant’s procurement system and Zhejiang’s “Sunshine Kitchen” food safety policies, I find that state responses to the food safety crisis misrecognise underlying moral-economic problems. By contrast, the restaurant’s farm-to-table purchasing system holds out a compelling model for (re)fashioning forms of moral consensus between growers and eaters of food.https://doi.org/10.1177/1868102620920124
spellingShingle Caroline Merrifield
Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in Zhejiang
Journal of Current Chinese Affairs
title Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in Zhejiang
title_full Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in Zhejiang
title_fullStr Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in Zhejiang
title_full_unstemmed Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in Zhejiang
title_short Seeing and Knowing: Sourcing Safe Food in Zhejiang
title_sort seeing and knowing sourcing safe food in zhejiang
url https://doi.org/10.1177/1868102620920124
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