Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.

Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil (HIEO) is characterized by high concentrations of neryl acetate, and we previously demonstrated that Corsican HIEO increases the expression of genes that are part of the differentiation complex (involucrin, small proline rich proteins, late cornified envel...

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Main Authors: Géraldine Lemaire, Malvina Olivero, Virginie Rouquet, Alain Moga, Aurélie Pagnon, Valérie Cenizo, Pascal Portes
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Public Library of Science (PLoS) 2023-01-01
Series:PLoS ONE
Online Access:https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0268384
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author Géraldine Lemaire
Malvina Olivero
Virginie Rouquet
Alain Moga
Aurélie Pagnon
Valérie Cenizo
Pascal Portes
author_facet Géraldine Lemaire
Malvina Olivero
Virginie Rouquet
Alain Moga
Aurélie Pagnon
Valérie Cenizo
Pascal Portes
author_sort Géraldine Lemaire
collection DOAJ
description Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil (HIEO) is characterized by high concentrations of neryl acetate, and we previously demonstrated that Corsican HIEO increases the expression of genes that are part of the differentiation complex (involucrin, small proline rich proteins, late cornified envelope, S100 protein family). The biological activities of HIEO and neryl acetate (NA) were compared to identify how NA contributes to HIEO activity on human skin. NA, as a part component of HIEO, was tested on skin explant models for 24 hours and 5 days in comparison with HIEO. We analyzed the biological regulations in the skin explant by transcriptomic analysis, skin barrier protein immunofluorescence, lipid staining and ceramide analysis by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Transcriptomic analysis revealed that 41.5% of HIEO-modulated genes were also regulated by NA and a selected panel of genes were confirmed by qquantitative reverse transcription PCR analysis. Those genes are involved in epidermal differentiation, skin barrier formation and ceramide synthesis. Involucrin (IVL), involved in formation of the cornified envelope (CE), was upregulated at both gene and protein levels after 24 hours and 5 days respectively. After 5 days of treatment, total lipids and ceramides were also increased. Our results demonstrate that NA mediates a large part of Corsican HIEO activity on skin barrier formation.
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spelling doaj.art-fa45edc5c77548bf903133618bce42d42023-04-12T05:32:58ZengPublic Library of Science (PLoS)PLoS ONE1932-62032023-01-01183e026838410.1371/journal.pone.0268384Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.Géraldine LemaireMalvina OliveroVirginie RouquetAlain MogaAurélie PagnonValérie CenizoPascal PortesCorsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil (HIEO) is characterized by high concentrations of neryl acetate, and we previously demonstrated that Corsican HIEO increases the expression of genes that are part of the differentiation complex (involucrin, small proline rich proteins, late cornified envelope, S100 protein family). The biological activities of HIEO and neryl acetate (NA) were compared to identify how NA contributes to HIEO activity on human skin. NA, as a part component of HIEO, was tested on skin explant models for 24 hours and 5 days in comparison with HIEO. We analyzed the biological regulations in the skin explant by transcriptomic analysis, skin barrier protein immunofluorescence, lipid staining and ceramide analysis by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Transcriptomic analysis revealed that 41.5% of HIEO-modulated genes were also regulated by NA and a selected panel of genes were confirmed by qquantitative reverse transcription PCR analysis. Those genes are involved in epidermal differentiation, skin barrier formation and ceramide synthesis. Involucrin (IVL), involved in formation of the cornified envelope (CE), was upregulated at both gene and protein levels after 24 hours and 5 days respectively. After 5 days of treatment, total lipids and ceramides were also increased. Our results demonstrate that NA mediates a large part of Corsican HIEO activity on skin barrier formation.https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0268384
spellingShingle Géraldine Lemaire
Malvina Olivero
Virginie Rouquet
Alain Moga
Aurélie Pagnon
Valérie Cenizo
Pascal Portes
Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.
PLoS ONE
title Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.
title_full Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.
title_fullStr Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.
title_full_unstemmed Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.
title_short Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.
title_sort neryl acetate the major component of corsican helichrysum italicum essential oil mediates its biological activities on skin barrier
url https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0268384
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