Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone Dynamics
This paper presents the observed morphological evolution of a multilevel beach cusp system in Long Strand, Co. Cork, Ireland. The surveys were carried out with an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) system between March and September 2019. From this site, three levels of beach cusps on the beachface (i.e....
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MDPI AG
2021-03-01
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| Series: | Geosciences |
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| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3263/11/4/148 |
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| author | Siegmund Nuyts Zili Li Kieran Hickey Jimmy Murphy |
| author_facet | Siegmund Nuyts Zili Li Kieran Hickey Jimmy Murphy |
| author_sort | Siegmund Nuyts |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | This paper presents the observed morphological evolution of a multilevel beach cusp system in Long Strand, Co. Cork, Ireland. The surveys were carried out with an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) system between March and September 2019. From this site, three levels of beach cusps on the beachface (i.e., lower beach level, mid beach level and upper beach level), and critical cusp parameters are reported, including cusp spacing, cusp elevation, cusp depth, and cusp amplitude. Thus far, such an extensive dataset has not previously been reported in the literature from a single site. The evolution of the different cusp parameters is then linked with the hydrodynamics in the study area, and new prediction theories are proposed for the different cusp parameters. The Lower beach level cusps (1 < <i>z</i> < 2.5 m Irish Transverse Mercator (ITM)) changed with every tide and appeared when surf-similarity parameter-<i>ξ</i><sub>0</sub> < 1.55. These cusps had a mean cusp spacing of <i>λ<sub>mean</sub></i> = 11.09 m, which are closely linked with the predictions of the self-organisation theory (<i>p</i> < 0.05). In contrast, the Mid beach level cusps (2.5 < <i>z</i> < 3.5 m ITM) are less dynamic compared to the Lower beach level cusps and can persist between spring tidal cycles. They had a mean cusp spacing of <i>λ<sub>mean</sub></i> = 18.17 m. The Upper beach level cusps (approximately <i>z</i> = 6 m ITM) are above astronomical tide levels and have a mean cusp spacing of <i>λ<sub>mean</sub></i> = 40.26 m. They did not change significantly over the survey period due to a lack of major storm events. These findings give a better understanding of the evolution of different cusp parameters for a multilevel beach cusp system and can be used to formulate a global theory regarding their change over time. |
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| issn | 2076-3263 |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-03-10T12:56:40Z |
| publishDate | 2021-03-01 |
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| series | Geosciences |
| spelling | doaj.art-fcfcd4f282394227b468fda895dd07222023-11-21T11:51:30ZengMDPI AGGeosciences2076-32632021-03-0111414810.3390/geosciences11040148Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone DynamicsSiegmund Nuyts0Zili Li1Kieran Hickey2Jimmy Murphy3Marine Renewable Energy Ireland (MaREI) Centre, Environmental Research Institute (ERI), University College Cork (UCC), P43 C573 Cork, IrelandSchool of Civil, Structural and Environmental Engineering, University College Cork (UCC), T12 K8AF Cork, IrelandDepartment of Geography, University College Cork (UCC), T12 K8AF Cork, IrelandMarine Renewable Energy Ireland (MaREI) Centre, Environmental Research Institute (ERI), University College Cork (UCC), P43 C573 Cork, IrelandThis paper presents the observed morphological evolution of a multilevel beach cusp system in Long Strand, Co. Cork, Ireland. The surveys were carried out with an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) system between March and September 2019. From this site, three levels of beach cusps on the beachface (i.e., lower beach level, mid beach level and upper beach level), and critical cusp parameters are reported, including cusp spacing, cusp elevation, cusp depth, and cusp amplitude. Thus far, such an extensive dataset has not previously been reported in the literature from a single site. The evolution of the different cusp parameters is then linked with the hydrodynamics in the study area, and new prediction theories are proposed for the different cusp parameters. The Lower beach level cusps (1 < <i>z</i> < 2.5 m Irish Transverse Mercator (ITM)) changed with every tide and appeared when surf-similarity parameter-<i>ξ</i><sub>0</sub> < 1.55. These cusps had a mean cusp spacing of <i>λ<sub>mean</sub></i> = 11.09 m, which are closely linked with the predictions of the self-organisation theory (<i>p</i> < 0.05). In contrast, the Mid beach level cusps (2.5 < <i>z</i> < 3.5 m ITM) are less dynamic compared to the Lower beach level cusps and can persist between spring tidal cycles. They had a mean cusp spacing of <i>λ<sub>mean</sub></i> = 18.17 m. The Upper beach level cusps (approximately <i>z</i> = 6 m ITM) are above astronomical tide levels and have a mean cusp spacing of <i>λ<sub>mean</sub></i> = 40.26 m. They did not change significantly over the survey period due to a lack of major storm events. These findings give a better understanding of the evolution of different cusp parameters for a multilevel beach cusp system and can be used to formulate a global theory regarding their change over time.https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3263/11/4/148beach cuspsUAV photogrammetryswash zonemorpodynamics |
| spellingShingle | Siegmund Nuyts Zili Li Kieran Hickey Jimmy Murphy Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone Dynamics Geosciences beach cusps UAV photogrammetry swash zone morpodynamics |
| title | Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone Dynamics |
| title_full | Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone Dynamics |
| title_fullStr | Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone Dynamics |
| title_full_unstemmed | Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone Dynamics |
| title_short | Field Observations of a Multilevel Beach Cusp System and Their Swash Zone Dynamics |
| title_sort | field observations of a multilevel beach cusp system and their swash zone dynamics |
| topic | beach cusps UAV photogrammetry swash zone morpodynamics |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3263/11/4/148 |
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