Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential

Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs...

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Main Authors: Ritamaria di Lorenzo, Antonietta Bernardi, Lucia Grumetto, Antonia Sacchi, Carmen Avagliano, Serena Coppola, Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina, Cristina Bruno, Lorella Paparo, Sonia Laneri, Irene Dini
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2021-10-01
Series:Molecules
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/21/6611
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author Ritamaria di Lorenzo
Antonietta Bernardi
Lucia Grumetto
Antonia Sacchi
Carmen Avagliano
Serena Coppola
Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina
Cristina Bruno
Lorella Paparo
Sonia Laneri
Irene Dini
author_facet Ritamaria di Lorenzo
Antonietta Bernardi
Lucia Grumetto
Antonia Sacchi
Carmen Avagliano
Serena Coppola
Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina
Cristina Bruno
Lorella Paparo
Sonia Laneri
Irene Dini
author_sort Ritamaria di Lorenzo
collection DOAJ
description Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C<sub>13</sub>H<sub>18</sub>N<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).
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spelling doaj.art-ff0593684a7d493bbc19daac95075d742023-11-22T21:23:54ZengMDPI AGMolecules1420-30492021-10-012621661110.3390/molecules26216611Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening PotentialRitamaria di Lorenzo0Antonietta Bernardi1Lucia Grumetto2Antonia Sacchi3Carmen Avagliano4Serena Coppola5Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina6Cristina Bruno7Lorella Paparo8Sonia Laneri9Irene Dini10Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, ItalyDepartment of Translational Medical Science, University of Naples Federico II, Via Sergio Pansini 5, 80131 Naples, ItalyDepartment of Translational Medical Science, University of Naples Federico II, Via Sergio Pansini 5, 80131 Naples, ItalyDepartment of Translational Medical Science, University of Naples Federico II, Via Sergio Pansini 5, 80131 Naples, ItalyDepartment of Translational Medical Science, University of Naples Federico II, Via Sergio Pansini 5, 80131 Naples, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, ItalyDepartment of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, ItalyHuman skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C<sub>13</sub>H<sub>18</sub>N<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/21/6611butyrateskin microbiotaskin permeationerythema indexsoothing and anti-reddening effect
spellingShingle Ritamaria di Lorenzo
Antonietta Bernardi
Lucia Grumetto
Antonia Sacchi
Carmen Avagliano
Serena Coppola
Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina
Cristina Bruno
Lorella Paparo
Sonia Laneri
Irene Dini
Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
Molecules
butyrate
skin microbiota
skin permeation
erythema index
soothing and anti-reddening effect
title Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_full Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_fullStr Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_full_unstemmed Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_short Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_sort phenylalanine butyramide is a new cosmetic ingredient with soothing and anti reddening potential
topic butyrate
skin microbiota
skin permeation
erythema index
soothing and anti-reddening effect
url https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/21/6611
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