An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions
We derive an amplitude equation that captures the effect of small but arbitrary topography on small-amplitude surface gravity waves. The robustness of this reduced model is demonstrated by numerical simulations that compare it with the fully nonlinear water wave equations. The amplitude equation is...
| Main Authors: | , |
|---|---|
| Other Authors: | |
| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
American Physical Society
2018
|
| Online Access: | http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/119810 |
| _version_ | 1811073686796500992 |
|---|---|
| author | Thomas, Jim Yamada, Ray Akitsugu |
| author2 | Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences |
| author_facet | Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences Thomas, Jim Yamada, Ray Akitsugu |
| author_sort | Thomas, Jim |
| collection | MIT |
| description | We derive an amplitude equation that captures the effect of small but arbitrary topography on small-amplitude surface gravity waves. The robustness of this reduced model is demonstrated by numerical simulations that compare it with the fully nonlinear water wave equations. The amplitude equation is seen to accurately capture intricate and complex wave dynamics, compared with the fully nonlinear equations, while being much faster than the latter. Consequently, the model offers great potential for various surface wave-topography interaction investigations, especially when a large number of simulations are needed to obtain wave statistics, a process that is much slower if attempted using the full set of equations. |
| first_indexed | 2024-09-23T09:36:58Z |
| format | Article |
| id | mit-1721.1/119810 |
| institution | Massachusetts Institute of Technology |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-09-23T09:36:58Z |
| publishDate | 2018 |
| publisher | American Physical Society |
| record_format | dspace |
| spelling | mit-1721.1/1198102022-09-26T12:41:25Z An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions Thomas, Jim Yamada, Ray Akitsugu Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences Yamada, Ray Akitsugu We derive an amplitude equation that captures the effect of small but arbitrary topography on small-amplitude surface gravity waves. The robustness of this reduced model is demonstrated by numerical simulations that compare it with the fully nonlinear water wave equations. The amplitude equation is seen to accurately capture intricate and complex wave dynamics, compared with the fully nonlinear equations, while being much faster than the latter. Consequently, the model offers great potential for various surface wave-topography interaction investigations, especially when a large number of simulations are needed to obtain wave statistics, a process that is much slower if attempted using the full set of equations. National Science Foundation (U.S.) (Award AGS-1624203) 2018-12-20T21:03:27Z 2018-12-20T21:03:27Z 2018-12 2018-05 2018-12-13T18:00:21Z Article http://purl.org/eprint/type/JournalArticle 2469-990X http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/119810 Thomas, Jim, and Ray Yamada. “An Amplitude Equation for Surface Gravity Wave-Topography Interactions.” Physical Review Fluids, vol. 3, no. 12, Dec. 2018. © 2018 American Physical Society en http://dx.doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevFluids.3.124802 Physical Review Fluids Article is made available in accordance with the publisher's policy and may be subject to US copyright law. Please refer to the publisher's site for terms of use. American Physical Society application/pdf American Physical Society American Physical Society |
| spellingShingle | Thomas, Jim Yamada, Ray Akitsugu An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions |
| title | An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions |
| title_full | An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions |
| title_fullStr | An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions |
| title_full_unstemmed | An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions |
| title_short | An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions |
| title_sort | amplitude equation for surface gravity wave topography interactions |
| url | http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/119810 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT thomasjim anamplitudeequationforsurfacegravitywavetopographyinteractions AT yamadarayakitsugu anamplitudeequationforsurfacegravitywavetopographyinteractions AT thomasjim amplitudeequationforsurfacegravitywavetopographyinteractions AT yamadarayakitsugu amplitudeequationforsurfacegravitywavetopographyinteractions |