Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling
To investigate past extreme waves which deposited cliff-top boulders, it is important to elucidate the wave force acting on wave-cut notches beneath coastal cliffs. Our laboratory experiments have revealed that extreme waves over coastal cliffs generated both sustained and impulsive forces, and that...
| Main Authors: | , |
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| Other Authors: | |
| Format: | Journal Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
2023
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| Online Access: | https://hdl.handle.net/10356/164229 |
| _version_ | 1811691784263172096 |
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| author | Watanabe, Masashi Arikawa, Taro |
| author2 | Earth Observatory of Singapore |
| author_facet | Earth Observatory of Singapore Watanabe, Masashi Arikawa, Taro |
| author_sort | Watanabe, Masashi |
| collection | NTU |
| description | To investigate past extreme waves which deposited cliff-top boulders, it is important to elucidate the wave force acting on wave-cut notches beneath coastal cliffs. Our laboratory experiments have revealed that extreme waves over coastal cliffs generated both sustained and impulsive forces, and that sustained forces can be estimated from buoyancy, because velocities are rather small when sustained forces are generated. Thus, boulders at coastal cliffs are likely moved by impulsive forces but not by sustained forces. We have also proposed coefficients of the formula which can reproduce impulsive and sustained wave forces acting on the notch based on observed and simulated wave heights and velocities. Using the proposed formula, wave heights and velocities that are necessary to move boulders up coastal cliffs can be estimated without numerical simulations. In our future investigation, we will account for the scaling effect of impulsive forces acting on coastal cliffs. |
| first_indexed | 2024-10-01T06:25:23Z |
| format | Journal Article |
| id | ntu-10356/164229 |
| institution | Nanyang Technological University |
| language | English |
| last_indexed | 2024-10-01T06:25:23Z |
| publishDate | 2023 |
| record_format | dspace |
| spelling | ntu-10356/1642292023-01-21T23:32:40Z Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling Watanabe, Masashi Arikawa, Taro Earth Observatory of Singapore Science::Geology Coastal Cliff Coastal Boulder To investigate past extreme waves which deposited cliff-top boulders, it is important to elucidate the wave force acting on wave-cut notches beneath coastal cliffs. Our laboratory experiments have revealed that extreme waves over coastal cliffs generated both sustained and impulsive forces, and that sustained forces can be estimated from buoyancy, because velocities are rather small when sustained forces are generated. Thus, boulders at coastal cliffs are likely moved by impulsive forces but not by sustained forces. We have also proposed coefficients of the formula which can reproduce impulsive and sustained wave forces acting on the notch based on observed and simulated wave heights and velocities. Using the proposed formula, wave heights and velocities that are necessary to move boulders up coastal cliffs can be estimated without numerical simulations. In our future investigation, we will account for the scaling effect of impulsive forces acting on coastal cliffs. Submitted/Accepted version This work was supported by a Fukada Grant-in-Aid FY2020 from the Fukada Geological Institute to Masashi Watanabe and JSPS KAKENHI Grant Number 21H00631, 22K14455. This work was also supported by a Sasakawa Scientific Research Grant from the Japan Science Society. This work was also supported by Association for disaster prevention research. 2023-01-18T02:53:15Z 2023-01-18T02:53:15Z 2023 Journal Article Watanabe, M. & Arikawa, T. (2023). Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Ocean Engineering, 270, 113656-. https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2023.113656 0029-8018 https://hdl.handle.net/10356/164229 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2023.113656 270 113656 en Ocean Engineering © 2023 Elsevier. All rights reserved. This paper was published in Ocean Engineering and is made available with permission of Elsevier. application/pdf |
| spellingShingle | Science::Geology Coastal Cliff Coastal Boulder Watanabe, Masashi Arikawa, Taro Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling |
| title | Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling |
| title_full | Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling |
| title_fullStr | Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling |
| title_full_unstemmed | Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling |
| title_short | Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling |
| title_sort | elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling |
| topic | Science::Geology Coastal Cliff Coastal Boulder |
| url | https://hdl.handle.net/10356/164229 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT watanabemasashi elucidationofwavepressureactingonawavecutnotchbeneathacoastalcliffbasedonlaboratoryexperimentsandnumericalmodeling AT arikawataro elucidationofwavepressureactingonawavecutnotchbeneathacoastalcliffbasedonlaboratoryexperimentsandnumericalmodeling |