| Summary: | Tradisional woven cloth is of the kind that is passed on from
generation to generation whose artisants are family members or
relatives in a neighborhood. The cloth compreses fabrics made of
lungsi and pakan yarns and it is used as ritual objects, clothings and
the likes. There are many kinds of traditional and modern woven
cloths that contain high cultural values in technical and aesthetical
aspects and especially symbolic and philosophical meanings as their
basis.
The study examines the comparison of ulos tradisional woven
cloth from Batak Toba of North Sumatera and gringsing traditional
woven cloth from Tenganan Bali Aga from functional and technical
aspects and also social and cultural symbolic meanings.
In their development the tradisional woven cloths of ulos and
gringsing has changed because of the innovation and modification
applied to them such as the variety of decorations, production
equipment, and the function and also the role played by the cloths in
the tradisional societies. The ulos and gringsing still play an important
role up to the present time in their respective societies of Batak Toba
and Tenganan Bali Aga. In addition to the expression of artistic
workds, they also represent a collection of cultural symbol of their
societies. The symbols are expressed in the varieties of decorations,
which not only coprises lines but also visual figures for models to
materialized in a real life situation from generation to generation.
A qualitive study is conducted to understand the role of the
tradisional woven clohtes of the two societies using historical,
antropological, sociological, semiotical and aesthetical approaches. It
compares the essence of the woven cloth arts of the two societies in
order to find one the role played by the two tradisional woven cloths.
The main findings of the study are the forms, the functions and
the meanings contained in a variety of decoration of the ulos and
gringsing cloths that are mutually embrassed by the members of their
respective supporting cultures and it is continuously communicated
and socialized through various means and customary ritual of their
respective societies. The ulos is more oriented to the effort to make
people aware of the duties to materialize Hindu teachings through
ritual, while at the same time emphasizes its aestethic values.
As artistic works, they serve the function of seculare arts to
certain degree and expected to contribute to the development of the
discipline of arts and handicraft design as a part of the cultures of
Batak and Tenganan Bali Aga.
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