Broken to the trade: French lacemakers' tools as sources of pride and pain

Thousands of women worked as lacemakers in nineteenth-century France on a ‘putting-out’ basis. Their tools—pillow, bobbins, pins—were cheap or easy to make, but held emotional and symbolic connotations, both for lacemakers and for the connoisseurs and philanthropists who protected the trade from mec...

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书目详细资料
主要作者: Hopkin, DM
格式: Journal article
语言:English
出版: Oxford University Press 2023
实物特征
总结:Thousands of women worked as lacemakers in nineteenth-century France on a ‘putting-out’ basis. Their tools—pillow, bobbins, pins—were cheap or easy to make, but held emotional and symbolic connotations, both for lacemakers and for the connoisseurs and philanthropists who protected the trade from mechanisation. Pillows, bobbins and other tools could be decorated with sentimental or other messages. Lace tools were anthropomorphised in local dialects, becoming ‘servants’. They were exchanged as gifts, lent by neighbours and passed down the generations. They embodied lacemakers’ relationships, as well as their craft identity. On their feast-days, lacemakers paraded with their tools as a statement of craft pride. Yet in lacemakers’ work culture, tools became instruments of torture. Lacemakers were ‘broken to the trade’ by their tools and the bodily attitudes they were forced to adopt. As lacemaking became closely associated with poverty, some lacemakers destroyed their tools in protest at the grinding discipline.