The influence of spectral bandwidth and shape on deep-water wave breaking onset
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have...
| Hlavní autoři: | , , , |
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| Médium: | Journal article |
| Jazyk: | English |
| Vydáno: |
Cambridge University Press
2023
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