Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation
Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (Phys....
| Hlavní autoři: | , , , , , |
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| Médium: | Journal article |
| Jazyk: | English |
| Vydáno: |
Springer
2021
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