Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation

Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (Phys....

Ausführliche Beschreibung

Bibliographische Detailangaben
Hauptverfasser: Bonar, PAJ, Fitzgerald, C, Lin, Z, Van Den Bremer, T, Adcock, T, Borthwick, A
Format: Journal article
Sprache:English
Veröffentlicht: Springer 2021

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