Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent

The invention of modifying palm oils to produce sunscreen agent, ferulate ester (RBD-FE) had been investigated through transesterification reaction of RBD palm olein with ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-cinnamate, FA) by enzymatic synthesis. Ferulic acid is a natural substance which has free r...

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Main Author: Lim, Sheo Kun
Format: Thesis
Language:English
English
Published: 2006
Subjects:
Online Access:http://psasir.upm.edu.my/id/eprint/119/1/549076_t_fs_2006_25.pdf
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author Lim, Sheo Kun
author_facet Lim, Sheo Kun
author_sort Lim, Sheo Kun
collection UPM
description The invention of modifying palm oils to produce sunscreen agent, ferulate ester (RBD-FE) had been investigated through transesterification reaction of RBD palm olein with ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-cinnamate, FA) by enzymatic synthesis. Ferulic acid is a natural substance which has free radical scavenging effects and helps to prevent damage to our cells caused by UV light. However, incorporation of ferulic acid into cosmetic compositions is problematic due to its instability in aqueous solution and limited solubility in water in oil emulsions. Besides, currently used sunscreen agent in 90 percent of all sunscreen products throughout the world; octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is reported could be toxic to human skin. This process has been studied as one approach in order to overcome these problems to provide a natural cosmetic ingredient with enhanced efficiency and stability. It combines the ultraviolet-absorbing properties of a cinnamate (ferulic acid) with the water-insoluble properties of a lipid (RBDPO) resulting in ultraviolet-absorbing lipids (RBD-FE) made from all natural ingredients under mild, solvent-free conditions to ensure a safe, clean and cosmetically acceptable product. Enzyme screening revealed Novozym 435 to be the most efficient biocatalyst for the reaction and was chosen for optimization studies. The important parameters that may affect the synthesis of RBD-FE had been investigated. The corresponding optimal conditions for the transesterification reaction was time, 96 h; temperature, 40 °C; mole ratio of ferulic acid: RBDPO, 1:3; and amount of enzyme used, 0.10 g resulting in highest percentage of conversion (24.51%) to ultraviolet-absorbing lipids (RBD-FE) that works as a sunscreen agent. Identities of product were verified using TLC, gas chromatography (GC), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), GC-Mass Spectroscopy (GC-MS) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) Spectroscopy analyses. Thermal and oxidative stability of the RBD-FE were also evaluated. Later, palm-based ferulate ester was also formulated into cosmetic formulations to evaluate it as sunscreen agent followed by Sun Protection Factor (SPF) analysi RBD-FE showed higher thermal stability and better oxidative stability. Besides, it became an active ingredient in sunscreen formulation which acted as a broadband sunscreen agent which covers both UVA and UVB rays. It showed a wider light absorption peak between 290 and 400nm.s
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spelling upm.eprints-1192013-05-27T06:45:42Z http://psasir.upm.edu.my/id/eprint/119/ Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent Lim, Sheo Kun The invention of modifying palm oils to produce sunscreen agent, ferulate ester (RBD-FE) had been investigated through transesterification reaction of RBD palm olein with ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-cinnamate, FA) by enzymatic synthesis. Ferulic acid is a natural substance which has free radical scavenging effects and helps to prevent damage to our cells caused by UV light. However, incorporation of ferulic acid into cosmetic compositions is problematic due to its instability in aqueous solution and limited solubility in water in oil emulsions. Besides, currently used sunscreen agent in 90 percent of all sunscreen products throughout the world; octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is reported could be toxic to human skin. This process has been studied as one approach in order to overcome these problems to provide a natural cosmetic ingredient with enhanced efficiency and stability. It combines the ultraviolet-absorbing properties of a cinnamate (ferulic acid) with the water-insoluble properties of a lipid (RBDPO) resulting in ultraviolet-absorbing lipids (RBD-FE) made from all natural ingredients under mild, solvent-free conditions to ensure a safe, clean and cosmetically acceptable product. Enzyme screening revealed Novozym 435 to be the most efficient biocatalyst for the reaction and was chosen for optimization studies. The important parameters that may affect the synthesis of RBD-FE had been investigated. The corresponding optimal conditions for the transesterification reaction was time, 96 h; temperature, 40 °C; mole ratio of ferulic acid: RBDPO, 1:3; and amount of enzyme used, 0.10 g resulting in highest percentage of conversion (24.51%) to ultraviolet-absorbing lipids (RBD-FE) that works as a sunscreen agent. Identities of product were verified using TLC, gas chromatography (GC), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), GC-Mass Spectroscopy (GC-MS) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) Spectroscopy analyses. Thermal and oxidative stability of the RBD-FE were also evaluated. Later, palm-based ferulate ester was also formulated into cosmetic formulations to evaluate it as sunscreen agent followed by Sun Protection Factor (SPF) analysi RBD-FE showed higher thermal stability and better oxidative stability. Besides, it became an active ingredient in sunscreen formulation which acted as a broadband sunscreen agent which covers both UVA and UVB rays. It showed a wider light absorption peak between 290 and 400nm.s 2006-05 Thesis NonPeerReviewed application/pdf en http://psasir.upm.edu.my/id/eprint/119/1/549076_t_fs_2006_25.pdf Lim, Sheo Kun (2006) Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent. Masters thesis, Universiti Putra Malaysia. Sunscreens (Cosmetics). Palm oil - Research. English
spellingShingle Sunscreens (Cosmetics).
Palm oil - Research.
Lim, Sheo Kun
Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent
title Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent
title_full Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent
title_fullStr Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent
title_full_unstemmed Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent
title_short Enzymatic Synthesis of Palm-Based Ferulate Ester as Sunscreen Agent
title_sort enzymatic synthesis of palm based ferulate ester as sunscreen agent
topic Sunscreens (Cosmetics).
Palm oil - Research.
url http://psasir.upm.edu.my/id/eprint/119/1/549076_t_fs_2006_25.pdf
work_keys_str_mv AT limsheokun enzymaticsynthesisofpalmbasedferulateesterassunscreenagent