Spatial Evolution of Skewness and Kurtosis of Unidirectional Extreme Waves Propagating over a Sloping Beach
The understanding of the occurrence of extreme waves is crucial to simulate the growth of waves in coastal regions. Laboratory experiments were performed to study the spatial evolution of the statistics of group-focused waves that have a relatively broad-banded spectra propagating from intermediate...
| Main Authors: | , , |
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
MDPI AG
2022-10-01
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| Series: | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/10/10/1475 |