Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing
An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea breeze cycle at...
Main Authors: | , , , , |
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Format: | Article |
Language: | English |
Published: |
MDPI AG
2019-10-01
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Series: | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
Subjects: | |
Online Access: | https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/7/11/383 |