Step Approximation on Water Wave Breaking and Dissipation over Variable Bottoms across the Surf Zone

This study investigates the combined effect of the breaking and energy dissipation of water waves by variable bottoms across the surf zone. The shoreline is set up as a partially reflecting vertical wall in the solution technique, with shelves between the steps that approximate the geometric profile...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Jen-Yi Chang, Chia-Cheng Tsai
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2023-01-01
Series:Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/11/1/62