Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation

Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (Phys....

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Những tác giả chính: Bonar, PAJ, Fitzgerald, C, Lin, Z, Van Den Bremer, T, Adcock, T, Borthwick, A
Định dạng: Journal article
Ngôn ngữ:English
Được phát hành: Springer 2021