The nonlinear evolution and approximate scaling of directionally spread wave groups on deep water
The evolution of steep waves in the open ocean is nonlinear. In narrow-banded but directionally spread seas, this nonlinearity does not produce significant extra elevation but does lead to a large change in the shape of the wave group, causing, relative to linear evolution, contraction in the mean w...
Main Authors: | , , |
---|---|
Format: | Journal article |
Language: | English |
Published: |
2012
|