Surface wavepackets subject to an abrupt depth change. Part 1. Second-order theory

This paper develops second-order theory for narrow-banded surface gravity wavepackets experiencing a sudden depth transition based on a Stokes and multiple-scales expansion. As a wavepacket travels over a sudden depth transition, additional wavepackets are generated that propagate freely obeying the...

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Hlavní autoři: Li, Y, Zheng, Y, Lin, Z, Adcock, TA, Van Den Bremer, T
Médium: Journal article
Jazyk:English
Vydáno: Cambridge University Press 2021