Spatial evolution of the kurtosis of steep unidirectional random waves
We study the evolution of unidirectional water waves from a randomly forced input condition with uncorrelated Fourier components. We examine the kurtosis of the linearised free surface as a convenient proxy for the probability of a rogue wave. We repeat the laboratory experiments of Onorato et al. (...
Main Authors: | , , , , , , , |
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Format: | Journal article |
Language: | English |
Published: |
Cambridge University Press
2020
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